1
00:00:02,753 --> 00:00:05,506
[woman] I think I need

2
00:00:02,753 --> 00:00:05,506
more momentum. Power.

3
00:00:08,091 --> 00:00:10,886
That's why I'm creating

4
00:00:08,091 --> 00:00:10,886
all the time.

5
00:00:14,264 --> 00:00:17,058
I have a little bit

6
00:00:14,264 --> 00:00:17,058
of a crazy side.

7
00:00:17,100 --> 00:00:19,060
That's why I keep moving.

8
00:00:19,102 --> 00:00:20,604
I keep doing something.

9
00:00:23,106 --> 00:00:25,693
I can't sit still

10
00:00:23,106 --> 00:00:25,693
in the same place.

11
00:00:25,734 --> 00:00:27,987
I have to move.

12
00:00:28,028 --> 00:00:30,698
And still, I am learning.

13
00:00:38,914 --> 00:00:41,124
[Lanegan and Homme]

14
00:00:38,914 --> 00:00:41,124
♪ I took a walk ♪

15
00:00:41,166 --> 00:00:45,170
♪ Through this

16
00:00:41,166 --> 00:00:45,170
beautiful world ♪

17
00:00:45,212 --> 00:00:47,172
♪ Felt the cool rain ♪

18
00:00:47,214 --> 00:00:50,509
♪ On my shoulder ♪

19
00:00:50,551 --> 00:00:52,469
♪ Found something good ♪

20
00:00:52,511 --> 00:00:57,098
♪ In this beautiful world ♪

21
00:00:57,140 --> 00:00:59,100
♪ I felt the rain ♪

22
00:00:59,142 --> 00:01:02,270
♪ Getting colder ♪

23
00:01:02,312 --> 00:01:05,607
-[man] ♪ La, la ♪

24
00:01:02,312 --> 00:01:05,607
-[man] ♪ Sha la, la, la, la ♪

25
00:01:05,649 --> 00:01:08,819
-[man] ♪ Sha la, la, la ♪

26
00:01:05,649 --> 00:01:08,819
-[man] ♪ Sha la, la, la, la ♪

27
00:01:08,861 --> 00:01:11,989
[man]

28
00:01:08,861 --> 00:01:11,989
♪ Sha la, la, la, la, la ♪

29
00:01:12,031 --> 00:01:16,410
♪ Sha la, la, la, la, la ♪

30
00:01:19,872 --> 00:01:23,208
♪ ♪

31
00:01:29,464 --> 00:01:30,925
[Bourdain]

32
00:01:29,464 --> 00:01:30,925
This is the restaurant,

33
00:01:30,966 --> 00:01:33,052
Masa in New York City.

34
00:01:33,092 --> 00:01:34,135
Tucked away on the fourth floor

35
00:01:34,177 --> 00:01:35,846
of the Time Warner Center

36
00:01:35,888 --> 00:01:37,973
on Columbus Circle.

37
00:01:38,015 --> 00:01:39,140
It is America's

38
00:01:39,182 --> 00:01:41,977
most expensive restaurant.

39
00:01:42,019 --> 00:01:43,228
Dinner here costs around

40
00:01:43,270 --> 00:01:45,564
$600 per person

41
00:01:45,606 --> 00:01:48,149
before sake or extra pieces

42
00:01:48,191 --> 00:01:51,152
of the most outrageous

43
00:01:48,191 --> 00:01:51,152
quality tuna

44
00:01:51,194 --> 00:01:52,947
on the planet.

45
00:01:52,988 --> 00:01:54,155
The raw ingredients

46
00:01:54,197 --> 00:01:55,156
are unparalleled,

47
00:01:55,198 --> 00:01:57,158
often flown in from Japan

48
00:01:57,200 --> 00:01:58,368
or grown specially

49
00:01:58,410 --> 00:02:01,121
to this man's specifications.

50
00:02:02,706 --> 00:02:05,793
This is Masa Takayama.

51
00:02:05,834 --> 00:02:06,835
To call him America's

52
00:02:06,877 --> 00:02:08,378
most respected sushi chef

53
00:02:08,420 --> 00:02:10,464
would be an injustice,

54
00:02:10,505 --> 00:02:12,591
as he is more than that,

55
00:02:12,633 --> 00:02:14,676
much more.

56
00:02:14,718 --> 00:02:17,096
What was it about him

57
00:02:14,718 --> 00:02:17,096
that set him apart,

58
00:02:17,137 --> 00:02:18,430
took him from a rather

59
00:02:18,472 --> 00:02:20,891
bleak farming community

60
00:02:18,472 --> 00:02:20,891
in rural Japan

61
00:02:20,933 --> 00:02:22,434
to become first,

62
00:02:22,476 --> 00:02:24,561
the toast of Los Angeles

63
00:02:24,603 --> 00:02:25,395
and later,

64
00:02:25,437 --> 00:02:28,189
the king of New York.

65
00:02:28,231 --> 00:02:30,525
It is a fascinating story.

66
00:02:32,903 --> 00:02:34,195
Kanazawa is the capital

67
00:02:34,237 --> 00:02:35,363
of Ishikawa Prefecture

68
00:02:35,405 --> 00:02:37,908
on the west coast

69
00:02:35,405 --> 00:02:37,908
of Honshu Island

70
00:02:37,950 --> 00:02:39,367
along the Sea of Japan.

71
00:02:39,409 --> 00:02:41,703
It's known for its

72
00:02:39,409 --> 00:02:41,703
untouched-by-time

73
00:02:41,745 --> 00:02:43,204
traditional districts,

74
00:02:43,246 --> 00:02:44,414
one of the few cities in Japan

75
00:02:44,456 --> 00:02:46,000
left relatively intact

76
00:02:46,041 --> 00:02:48,209
throughout the war.

77
00:02:48,251 --> 00:02:49,837
It's famous for its crafts,

78
00:02:49,878 --> 00:02:52,464
for its beautiful ceramics

79
00:02:49,878 --> 00:02:52,464
in particular,

80
00:02:52,506 --> 00:02:55,258
but also, its artistic

81
00:02:52,506 --> 00:02:55,258
sensibility.

82
00:02:55,300 --> 00:02:56,844
The way it always valued

83
00:02:56,885 --> 00:02:58,053
beautiful things,

84
00:02:58,095 --> 00:02:59,220
traditions.

85
00:02:59,262 --> 00:03:00,931
It's a city that helped Masa,

86
00:03:00,973 --> 00:03:02,223
then at a crossroads,

87
00:03:02,265 --> 00:03:04,225
to discover a whole new world

88
00:03:04,267 --> 00:03:06,854
of grace, of aesthetics,

89
00:03:06,895 --> 00:03:08,147
of style,

90
00:03:08,229 --> 00:03:10,315
that affected him deeply.

91
00:03:13,986 --> 00:03:15,070
For most, however,

92
00:03:15,112 --> 00:03:16,738
Kanazawa is simply a place

93
00:03:16,780 --> 00:03:18,239
with great sea food.

94
00:03:18,281 --> 00:03:21,160
[Takayama] It is the kitchen

95
00:03:18,281 --> 00:03:21,160
of the--of Kanazawa City.

96
00:03:21,200 --> 00:03:22,410
-Yeah?

97
00:03:21,200 --> 00:03:22,410
-This market is.

98
00:03:22,452 --> 00:03:23,954
-[Bourdain] Ooh, look at that.

99
00:03:22,452 --> 00:03:23,954
-[Takayama] Yes.

100
00:03:23,996 --> 00:03:25,455
-[Bourdain] A lot of crab.

101
00:03:23,996 --> 00:03:25,455
-[Takayama] Yeah.

102
00:03:25,497 --> 00:03:27,457
Sea shrimp, sardine.

103
00:03:25,497 --> 00:03:27,457
Let's go there.

104
00:03:27,499 --> 00:03:29,918
[Bourdain] Okay.

105
00:03:27,499 --> 00:03:29,918
Ooh, look at that, uni.

106
00:03:29,960 --> 00:03:33,254
Sea urchin, one of my

107
00:03:29,960 --> 00:03:33,254
absolute favorite things,

108
00:03:33,296 --> 00:03:35,256
has a limited season

109
00:03:33,296 --> 00:03:35,256
in Japan,

110
00:03:35,298 --> 00:03:36,633
from September to April.

111
00:03:36,675 --> 00:03:38,259
And it's tastiest in winter.

112
00:03:38,301 --> 00:03:39,511
-Good.

113
00:03:38,301 --> 00:03:39,511
-[laughs]

114
00:03:39,553 --> 00:03:40,679
From here?

115
00:03:40,721 --> 00:03:41,638
[speaks Japanese]

116
00:03:41,680 --> 00:03:43,098
-[man] Hokkaido.

117
00:03:41,680 --> 00:03:43,098
-[Takayama] Hokkado.

118
00:03:43,140 --> 00:03:44,558
Hokkaido. Good deal.

119
00:03:44,599 --> 00:03:47,268
Another seasonal

120
00:03:44,599 --> 00:03:47,268
specialty currently at

121
00:03:47,310 --> 00:03:48,729
or near its best,

122
00:03:48,770 --> 00:03:49,855
kanogani,

123
00:03:49,897 --> 00:03:51,272
or snow crab,

124
00:03:51,314 --> 00:03:53,274
juicy, and sweet,

125
00:03:53,316 --> 00:03:55,152
and delicious.

126
00:03:55,194 --> 00:03:57,154
Oh, man, that is good.

127
00:03:57,196 --> 00:03:58,780
[Takayama] Really good.

128
00:03:58,822 --> 00:04:00,281
Sweet. Oh.

129
00:04:00,323 --> 00:04:01,742
-Very.

130
00:04:00,323 --> 00:04:01,742
-We need a sake, huh?

131
00:04:01,783 --> 00:04:02,492
[laughs]

132
00:04:02,534 --> 00:04:04,327
-Yeah.

133
00:04:02,534 --> 00:04:04,327
-[both laugh]

134
00:04:04,369 --> 00:04:06,246
-You want some?

135
00:04:04,369 --> 00:04:06,246
-[woman speaks Japanese]

136
00:04:07,330 --> 00:04:08,498
-Good.

137
00:04:07,330 --> 00:04:08,498
-Good, really good.

138
00:04:08,540 --> 00:04:09,875
-Thank you.

139
00:04:08,540 --> 00:04:09,875
-[man] Thank you!

140
00:04:09,917 --> 00:04:10,959
-Thank you.

141
00:04:09,917 --> 00:04:10,959
-Very good.

142
00:04:11,001 --> 00:04:12,335
♪ ♪

143
00:04:17,507 --> 00:04:19,176
[Takayama] Oh,

144
00:04:17,507 --> 00:04:19,176
let's eat this one.

145
00:04:19,218 --> 00:04:20,301
Can we get those?

146
00:04:20,343 --> 00:04:21,469
-Liver?

147
00:04:20,343 --> 00:04:21,469
-Yeah.

148
00:04:21,511 --> 00:04:23,304
[Bourdain] Eel livers

149
00:04:21,511 --> 00:04:23,304
grilled on a stick.

150
00:04:23,346 --> 00:04:25,891
-[Takayama] Unagi?

151
00:04:23,346 --> 00:04:25,891
-[man] Unagi, yeah.

152
00:04:25,933 --> 00:04:27,768
Yeah. Ooh, hot. [laughs]

153
00:04:27,809 --> 00:04:29,103
Good, huh?

154
00:04:29,144 --> 00:04:30,854
♪ ♪

155
00:04:33,774 --> 00:04:35,483
[Bourdain] Oysters.

156
00:04:33,774 --> 00:04:35,483
These are the size

157
00:04:35,525 --> 00:04:37,569
of freaking clown shoes.

158
00:04:37,611 --> 00:04:40,321
[Takayama] Could you open

159
00:04:37,611 --> 00:04:40,321
the big ones.

160
00:04:40,363 --> 00:04:41,322
[Bourdain]

161
00:04:40,363 --> 00:04:41,322
Where are these from?

162
00:04:41,364 --> 00:04:43,533
[Takayama] Shimane Prefecture.

163
00:04:43,575 --> 00:04:45,493
[Bourdain] Wow.

164
00:04:43,575 --> 00:04:45,493
Just one oyster is a meal.

165
00:04:45,535 --> 00:04:46,703
It's, like, as big as a steak.

166
00:04:46,745 --> 00:04:48,413
[Takayama]

167
00:04:46,745 --> 00:04:48,413
Yeah, yeah. Thank you.

168
00:04:48,455 --> 00:04:50,040
Just like that,

169
00:04:48,455 --> 00:04:50,040
you hold it.

170
00:04:50,082 --> 00:04:51,708
French style.

171
00:04:50,082 --> 00:04:51,708
[laughs]

172
00:04:51,750 --> 00:04:52,834
Wow.

173
00:04:52,876 --> 00:04:55,921
[laughs] Good, huh?

174
00:04:55,963 --> 00:04:58,132
Right? This is the best.

175
00:04:58,173 --> 00:05:00,134
[Bourdain]

176
00:04:58,173 --> 00:05:00,134
Wow, that's good,

177
00:05:00,175 --> 00:05:01,176
and tender for a big oyster.

178
00:05:01,218 --> 00:05:02,343
[Takayama]

179
00:05:01,218 --> 00:05:02,343
Uh-huh. Thank you.

180
00:05:02,385 --> 00:05:03,804
That was delicious!

181
00:05:03,845 --> 00:05:05,346
Arigato.

182
00:05:05,388 --> 00:05:07,224
It's so good, huh?

183
00:05:05,388 --> 00:05:07,224
[laughs]

184
00:05:07,266 --> 00:05:10,351
[Bourdain] Whoo.

185
00:05:10,393 --> 00:05:13,563
♪ ♪

186
00:05:37,129 --> 00:05:38,379
[Bourdain]

187
00:05:37,129 --> 00:05:38,379
The geisha profession,

188
00:05:38,421 --> 00:05:39,798
or geiko, as it's known

189
00:05:39,840 --> 00:05:40,966
in Kanazawa

190
00:05:41,008 --> 00:05:42,467
gained widespread popularity

191
00:05:42,509 --> 00:05:44,552
in the late 18th century.

192
00:05:44,594 --> 00:05:47,388
Wearing elaborate

193
00:05:44,594 --> 00:05:47,388
kimono costumes

194
00:05:47,430 --> 00:05:48,682
and makeup, geikos are paid

195
00:05:48,723 --> 00:05:51,392
to entertain by singing,

196
00:05:48,723 --> 00:05:51,392
dancing, drinking,

197
00:05:51,434 --> 00:05:53,895
basically making older men,

198
00:05:51,434 --> 00:05:53,895
generally,

199
00:05:53,937 --> 00:05:55,189
feel good and welcome

200
00:05:55,230 --> 00:05:56,898
for an hour, maybe two.

201
00:05:56,940 --> 00:06:00,359
♪ ♪

202
00:06:01,862 --> 00:06:04,698
[Bourdain] Yaeko is the owner

203
00:06:01,862 --> 00:06:04,698
of the Fujinoya tea house.

204
00:06:04,739 --> 00:06:07,909
One of only 15 or so

205
00:06:04,739 --> 00:06:07,909
left in Kanazawa.

206
00:06:07,951 --> 00:06:11,370
♪ ♪

207
00:06:17,044 --> 00:06:18,419
[sings in Japanese]

208
00:06:18,461 --> 00:06:20,421
[Bourdain] These tea houses

209
00:06:18,461 --> 00:06:20,421
which at one time

210
00:06:20,463 --> 00:06:22,216
numbered in the hundreds,

211
00:06:22,257 --> 00:06:24,343
provide a stage for the geiko,

212
00:06:24,383 --> 00:06:25,593
of which there are only about

213
00:06:25,635 --> 00:06:28,138
50 left working in the city.

214
00:06:28,180 --> 00:06:29,430
♪ ♪

215
00:06:29,472 --> 00:06:31,350
[Bourdain]

216
00:06:29,472 --> 00:06:31,350
Yaeko is a retired geiko

217
00:06:31,390 --> 00:06:32,851
and an old friend of Masa

218
00:06:32,893 --> 00:06:34,477
whom he credits

219
00:06:32,893 --> 00:06:34,477
with teaching him

220
00:06:34,519 --> 00:06:37,480
many things

221
00:06:34,519 --> 00:06:37,480
about culture, life,

222
00:06:37,522 --> 00:06:39,691
and presumably about women.

223
00:06:39,733 --> 00:06:42,443
[clapping]

224
00:06:42,485 --> 00:06:44,029
Nice, beautiful.

225
00:06:44,071 --> 00:06:46,447
-[Bourdain] This is a hard thing

226
00:06:44,071 --> 00:06:46,447
to do.

227
00:06:44,071 --> 00:06:46,447
-[Takayama] Oh, yeah, yeah.

228
00:06:46,489 --> 00:06:49,284
A lot of--they need to learn

229
00:06:46,489 --> 00:06:49,284
a lot of stuff. Thanks.

230
00:06:49,326 --> 00:06:50,660
[Bourdain]

231
00:06:49,326 --> 00:06:50,660
Play music, tell stories.

232
00:06:50,702 --> 00:06:52,246
-[Takayama] Dance.

233
00:06:50,702 --> 00:06:52,246
-Thank you for my sake.

234
00:06:52,287 --> 00:06:53,955
-[Takayama] Oh, I'm sorry.

235
00:06:52,287 --> 00:06:53,955
-That's okay

236
00:06:55,498 --> 00:06:57,542
-A lot of work.

237
00:06:55,498 --> 00:06:57,542
-[Bourdain] Lot of work.

238
00:06:57,584 --> 00:07:00,003
-[woman] Arigato.

239
00:06:57,584 --> 00:07:00,003
-[Takayama] Cheers.

240
00:07:01,504 --> 00:07:02,463
Hmm.

241
00:07:02,505 --> 00:07:04,465
So, what brought

242
00:07:02,505 --> 00:07:04,465
you here first?

243
00:07:04,507 --> 00:07:05,675
[Takayama] When I was young,

244
00:07:04,507 --> 00:07:05,675
I didn't know

245
00:07:05,717 --> 00:07:09,346
this other world,

246
00:07:05,717 --> 00:07:09,346
color-wise, artists,

247
00:07:09,388 --> 00:07:10,471
beautiful.

248
00:07:10,513 --> 00:07:12,473
I've never seen

249
00:07:10,513 --> 00:07:12,473
that kind of stuff.

250
00:07:12,515 --> 00:07:14,351
Big, kind of, shark.

251
00:07:14,393 --> 00:07:16,144
I was a country boy.

252
00:07:16,186 --> 00:07:18,188
Here is very sophisticated.

253
00:07:18,230 --> 00:07:20,107
People are sophisticated.

254
00:07:20,148 --> 00:07:22,276
I learned from her culture

255
00:07:22,317 --> 00:07:23,735
what the secret is,

256
00:07:23,777 --> 00:07:25,112
speech-wise.

257
00:07:25,153 --> 00:07:26,988
They teach me, you know?

258
00:07:27,030 --> 00:07:28,365
That's why Kanazawa City,

259
00:07:28,407 --> 00:07:29,783
this is my second country.

260
00:07:29,824 --> 00:07:32,994
♪ ♪

261
00:07:39,542 --> 00:07:41,502
[Bourdain] Owned and run

262
00:07:39,542 --> 00:07:41,502
by four generations

263
00:07:41,544 --> 00:07:42,963
within the same family,

264
00:07:43,004 --> 00:07:45,924
Yamanoo is a traditional

265
00:07:43,004 --> 00:07:45,924
kaiseki restaurant

266
00:07:45,966 --> 00:07:49,219
that dates back to 1890.

267
00:07:49,261 --> 00:07:50,887
Kaiseki is a multi-course meal

268
00:07:50,929 --> 00:07:53,181
with an entirely

269
00:07:50,929 --> 00:07:53,181
new menu presented

270
00:07:53,223 --> 00:07:54,515
every few weeks,

271
00:07:54,557 --> 00:07:56,517
in response

272
00:07:54,557 --> 00:07:56,517
to the changing seasons

273
00:07:56,559 --> 00:07:59,396
and the seasonality

274
00:07:56,559 --> 00:07:59,396
of the products available

275
00:07:59,438 --> 00:08:00,563
in the region.

276
00:08:00,605 --> 00:08:02,190
Everything is considered,

277
00:08:02,232 --> 00:08:03,442
the taste, of course,

278
00:08:03,483 --> 00:08:04,525
how to best prepare

279
00:08:04,567 --> 00:08:06,527
a particular fish or plant

280
00:08:06,569 --> 00:08:08,029
at its very peak.

281
00:08:08,071 --> 00:08:09,156
Presentation.

282
00:08:09,197 --> 00:08:10,449
Even the ceramic dishes

283
00:08:10,490 --> 00:08:11,532
on which each dish

284
00:08:11,574 --> 00:08:14,119
is served changes constantly.

285
00:08:14,161 --> 00:08:16,121
Leaves, flowers,

286
00:08:16,163 --> 00:08:17,372
elements from nature

287
00:08:17,414 --> 00:08:18,539
evoke the season.

288
00:08:18,581 --> 00:08:20,541
Wow, look at the package.

289
00:08:18,581 --> 00:08:20,541
Incredible.

290
00:08:20,583 --> 00:08:21,709
The first of eight dishes,

291
00:08:21,751 --> 00:08:24,212
preserved in a tightly

292
00:08:21,751 --> 00:08:24,212
wrapped bamboo leaf,

293
00:08:24,254 --> 00:08:26,547
intended to resemble

294
00:08:24,254 --> 00:08:26,547
a sword,

295
00:08:26,589 --> 00:08:29,259
sea bream served chimaki-style

296
00:08:29,301 --> 00:08:31,011
over rice slightly sweetened

297
00:08:31,052 --> 00:08:32,553
by vinegar, soy sauce,

298
00:08:32,595 --> 00:08:34,139
sugar, and sesame.

299
00:08:34,181 --> 00:08:37,058
-[Takayama] Beautiful, huh,

300
00:08:34,181 --> 00:08:37,058
Tony?

301
00:08:34,181 --> 00:08:37,058
-[Bourdain] Beautiful.

302
00:08:38,852 --> 00:08:40,561
Hmm.

303
00:08:40,603 --> 00:08:42,856
[Bourdain] When you first

304
00:08:40,603 --> 00:08:42,856
went to the US,

305
00:08:42,897 --> 00:08:45,233
-how old were you?

306
00:08:42,897 --> 00:08:45,233
-[Takayama] Twenty-seven.

307
00:08:45,275 --> 00:08:46,567
27? Such a young age?

308
00:08:46,609 --> 00:08:48,362
-Yeah.

309
00:08:46,609 --> 00:08:48,362
-Did you have a job

310
00:08:48,403 --> 00:08:50,489
-when you went?

311
00:08:48,403 --> 00:08:50,489
-No. For play golf.

312
00:08:50,530 --> 00:08:53,033
-No way.

313
00:08:50,530 --> 00:08:53,033
-[Takayama] Yeah.

314
00:08:50,530 --> 00:08:53,033
But the thing is,

315
00:08:53,074 --> 00:08:55,369
when I was a kid

316
00:08:53,074 --> 00:08:55,369
in art class,

317
00:08:55,410 --> 00:08:57,162
the teacher told me

318
00:08:55,410 --> 00:08:57,162
that American kids,

319
00:08:57,204 --> 00:08:59,206
they--when they

320
00:08:57,204 --> 00:08:59,206
draw outside,

321
00:08:59,247 --> 00:09:01,166
just flat,

322
00:08:59,247 --> 00:09:01,166
straight line.

323
00:09:01,208 --> 00:09:03,584
House, tree, sun,

324
00:09:03,626 --> 00:09:07,047
such a huge, huge land.

325
00:09:07,088 --> 00:09:09,508
So, Japanese kid, well,

326
00:09:07,088 --> 00:09:09,508
just mountain first

327
00:09:09,549 --> 00:09:11,592
and the house,

328
00:09:09,549 --> 00:09:11,592
right? The sun.

329
00:09:11,634 --> 00:09:15,180
I wanted to go to US.

330
00:09:11,634 --> 00:09:15,180
to see huge land.

331
00:09:15,222 --> 00:09:17,098
That's my, you know,

332
00:09:15,222 --> 00:09:17,098
dream, you know?

333
00:09:17,140 --> 00:09:19,726
♪ ♪

334
00:09:22,729 --> 00:09:25,273
[Bourdain] Grilled rockfish

335
00:09:22,729 --> 00:09:25,273
made Horaku style

336
00:09:25,315 --> 00:09:27,692
steamed and smoking wormwood.

337
00:09:27,734 --> 00:09:30,611
-[Takayama] Good fish, right?

338
00:09:27,734 --> 00:09:30,611
-[Bourdain] Very good.

339
00:09:30,653 --> 00:09:32,239
[Bourdain] Bamboo shoots

340
00:09:30,653 --> 00:09:32,239
and Wagyu beef

341
00:09:32,280 --> 00:09:34,324
prepared table side

342
00:09:32,280 --> 00:09:34,324
with soy sauce

343
00:09:34,366 --> 00:09:35,492
and mirin.

344
00:09:35,534 --> 00:09:36,910
[Takayama] Hmm.

345
00:09:36,951 --> 00:09:37,994
Oh, that's fantastic.

346
00:09:38,036 --> 00:09:39,037
That's really good.

347
00:09:39,079 --> 00:09:40,788
Today's sashimi course is cod,

348
00:09:40,830 --> 00:09:42,832
salted and pressed

349
00:09:40,830 --> 00:09:42,832
between leaves of kelp

350
00:09:42,874 --> 00:09:43,958
for two hours,

351
00:09:44,000 --> 00:09:46,920
coated with sake-cured

352
00:09:44,000 --> 00:09:46,920
codfish roe.

353
00:09:46,961 --> 00:09:48,422
Next to it, flounder,

354
00:09:48,463 --> 00:09:49,630
its skin gently rubbed

355
00:09:49,672 --> 00:09:51,632
with grilled tomato

356
00:09:49,672 --> 00:09:51,632
the day before.

357
00:09:51,674 --> 00:09:53,427
-Interesting.

358
00:09:51,674 --> 00:09:53,427
-[laughs]

359
00:09:53,468 --> 00:09:55,887
[Bourdain]

360
00:09:53,468 --> 00:09:55,887
Finally, a super-luxurious

361
00:09:55,929 --> 00:09:56,930
clam hot pot.

362
00:09:56,971 --> 00:09:58,932
Rice is steamed with clam

363
00:09:58,973 --> 00:10:00,267
and a bonito broth,

364
00:10:00,308 --> 00:10:02,936
then topped with plump

365
00:10:00,308 --> 00:10:02,936
torigai, plum,

366
00:10:02,977 --> 00:10:04,479
and Manju clams,

367
00:10:04,521 --> 00:10:06,273
as well as creamy sea urchin

368
00:10:06,314 --> 00:10:08,483
and a Japanese

369
00:10:06,314 --> 00:10:08,483
broccolini blossom

370
00:10:08,525 --> 00:10:09,901
for good measure.

371
00:10:09,943 --> 00:10:12,279
Simple, perfect.

372
00:10:12,320 --> 00:10:13,363
-Wow.

373
00:10:12,320 --> 00:10:13,363
-[Masa speaks Japanese]

374
00:10:13,405 --> 00:10:14,655
[Bourdain] Oh. Uni?

375
00:10:14,697 --> 00:10:16,074
-[Takayama] Uni.

376
00:10:14,697 --> 00:10:16,074
-[Bourdain] Awesome.

377
00:10:16,116 --> 00:10:18,493
[Takayama] All the umami

378
00:10:16,116 --> 00:10:18,493
holding to the rice, right?

379
00:10:18,535 --> 00:10:20,661
[Bourdain] Right.

380
00:10:18,535 --> 00:10:20,661
So, I wanna know.

381
00:10:20,703 --> 00:10:23,706
The stereotypical

382
00:10:20,703 --> 00:10:23,706
Japanese mentality,

383
00:10:23,748 --> 00:10:25,292
the salary man.

384
00:10:25,333 --> 00:10:26,834
You join the company.

385
00:10:25,333 --> 00:10:26,834
You stay with the company.

386
00:10:26,876 --> 00:10:28,920
[Takayama] Well, some people

387
00:10:26,876 --> 00:10:28,920
just go that way.

388
00:10:28,962 --> 00:10:30,464
[Bourdain] Most people

389
00:10:28,962 --> 00:10:30,464
go this way, yes.

390
00:10:30,505 --> 00:10:31,672
They choose security.

391
00:10:31,714 --> 00:10:33,300
[Takayama] Yeah, maybe.

392
00:10:31,714 --> 00:10:33,300
Yeah, yeah, maybe.

393
00:10:33,341 --> 00:10:34,968
[Bourdain] It's an

394
00:10:33,341 --> 00:10:34,968
unusual way of thinking,

395
00:10:35,009 --> 00:10:36,470
"I have to make

396
00:10:35,009 --> 00:10:36,470
my own way."

397
00:10:36,511 --> 00:10:37,678
Yeah, I agree with that.

398
00:10:37,720 --> 00:10:40,474
Older brother, they can take

399
00:10:37,720 --> 00:10:40,474
over family business.

400
00:10:40,515 --> 00:10:41,682
I got to do something.

401
00:10:41,724 --> 00:10:43,893
Went to Tokyo,

402
00:10:41,724 --> 00:10:43,893
then realized,

403
00:10:43,935 --> 00:10:46,062
"Wow, this is

404
00:10:43,935 --> 00:10:46,062
a different world."

405
00:10:46,104 --> 00:10:47,397
What could I do?

406
00:10:47,439 --> 00:10:48,398
Yeah.

407
00:10:48,440 --> 00:10:49,690
Second brother, maybe.

408
00:10:49,732 --> 00:10:50,691
Second brother syndrome.

409
00:10:50,733 --> 00:10:52,486
Exactly. Maybe, yeah.

410
00:10:52,527 --> 00:10:53,945
[Bourdain] This was awesome.

411
00:10:53,987 --> 00:10:55,696
-It was tasty, wasn't it?

412
00:10:53,987 --> 00:10:55,696
-[Yaeko speaks Japanese]

413
00:10:55,738 --> 00:10:56,781
Good to see you again.

414
00:10:56,823 --> 00:10:58,908
♪ ♪

415
00:11:01,995 --> 00:11:05,457
♪ ♪

416
00:11:06,207 --> 00:11:08,668
[Takayama] Ishikawa Prefecture

417
00:11:09,669 --> 00:11:12,797
is very rich country.

418
00:11:12,839 --> 00:11:14,715
Great seafood,

419
00:11:14,757 --> 00:11:16,176
lot of good vegetable.

420
00:11:16,217 --> 00:11:18,219
♪ ♪

421
00:11:18,261 --> 00:11:21,139
[Takayama]

422
00:11:18,261 --> 00:11:21,139
I came here to learn.

423
00:11:21,181 --> 00:11:23,391
This place totally changed me.

424
00:11:23,433 --> 00:11:25,393
Beautiful.

425
00:11:25,435 --> 00:11:28,647
Mr. Izukura, he's my mentor.

426
00:11:28,687 --> 00:11:30,982
This is called "Kiku-neri."

427
00:11:31,024 --> 00:11:32,775
[Takayama] He's an artist,

428
00:11:31,024 --> 00:11:32,775
great artist.

429
00:11:32,817 --> 00:11:35,736
[Izukura] You hand clay hard

430
00:11:32,817 --> 00:11:35,736
like this for pottery.

431
00:11:35,778 --> 00:11:37,405
-Add some water.

432
00:11:35,778 --> 00:11:37,405
-[Takayama] He gave me

433
00:11:37,447 --> 00:11:40,534
-a lot of idea.

434
00:11:37,447 --> 00:11:40,534
-[Izukura] Slowly. No rush.

435
00:11:40,575 --> 00:11:41,618
[Takayama] More than 40 years,

436
00:11:41,660 --> 00:11:43,411
he's doing this kind of art.

437
00:11:43,453 --> 00:11:45,622
[Izukura] When the center

438
00:11:43,453 --> 00:11:45,622
is off like this,

439
00:11:45,664 --> 00:11:47,748
you have to correct

440
00:11:45,664 --> 00:11:47,748
it again, like this.

441
00:11:47,790 --> 00:11:50,835
[Takayama] I learned

442
00:11:47,790 --> 00:11:50,835
that simple clean line.

443
00:11:50,877 --> 00:11:53,421
[Izukura] Don't worry

444
00:11:50,877 --> 00:11:53,421
about the bottom.

445
00:11:53,463 --> 00:11:56,591
Just the top part is important.

446
00:11:56,633 --> 00:11:58,593
[Takayama]

447
00:11:56,633 --> 00:11:58,593
Then, we become great friend.

448
00:11:58,635 --> 00:11:59,927
It's been a while too.

449
00:11:59,969 --> 00:12:02,055
[both laugh]

450
00:12:03,598 --> 00:12:05,850
[Takayama] Then,

451
00:12:03,598 --> 00:12:05,850
I start designing, too.

452
00:12:06,809 --> 00:12:08,853
I have an image in my head.

453
00:12:08,895 --> 00:12:10,188
I start drawing.

454
00:12:10,230 --> 00:12:11,772
I want to represent

455
00:12:10,230 --> 00:12:11,772
roughness.

456
00:12:11,814 --> 00:12:14,484
-It's all connected, right?

457
00:12:11,814 --> 00:12:14,484
-Yes.

458
00:12:14,526 --> 00:12:15,776
[Izukura] I see.

459
00:12:15,818 --> 00:12:17,404
[Takayama] Then,

460
00:12:15,818 --> 00:12:17,404
I come all the way here

461
00:12:17,445 --> 00:12:18,613
to talk with Mr. Izukura.

462
00:12:18,655 --> 00:12:21,241
It's a flat plate,

463
00:12:18,655 --> 00:12:21,241
a long plate.

464
00:12:21,282 --> 00:12:22,825
[Izukura] And dynamic.

465
00:12:22,867 --> 00:12:25,579
-[Takayama] And it's not square.

466
00:12:22,867 --> 00:12:25,579
-[Izukura] More diagonal.

467
00:12:25,620 --> 00:12:26,787
[Takayama] Yeah.

468
00:12:26,829 --> 00:12:30,291
♪ ♪

469
00:12:30,333 --> 00:12:32,877
[Takayama]

470
00:12:30,333 --> 00:12:32,877
I want something stronger.

471
00:12:41,511 --> 00:12:45,306
That passion makes me change.

472
00:12:45,348 --> 00:12:47,225
How much will it shrink?

473
00:12:47,267 --> 00:12:49,310
[Izukura] About ten percent.

474
00:12:49,352 --> 00:12:51,646
[Takayama] Good shape,

475
00:12:49,352 --> 00:12:51,646
isn't it? Nice curve.

476
00:12:51,688 --> 00:12:54,441
Yeah, that's it. Good.

477
00:12:51,688 --> 00:12:54,441
Yeah, beautiful.

478
00:12:54,482 --> 00:12:56,775
Concept, done.

479
00:13:00,447 --> 00:13:02,823
[Bourdain] When do you make

480
00:13:00,447 --> 00:13:02,823
the drawings for the ceramic

481
00:13:02,865 --> 00:13:04,867
-that you want?

482
00:13:02,865 --> 00:13:04,867
-[Takayama]

483
00:13:02,865 --> 00:13:04,867
When you're drinking.

484
00:13:04,909 --> 00:13:06,827
-[Bourdain]

485
00:13:04,909 --> 00:13:06,827
While you're drinking?

486
00:13:04,909 --> 00:13:06,827
-[Takayama] Yeah.

487
00:13:06,869 --> 00:13:08,829
[Takayama] We go--right?

488
00:13:06,869 --> 00:13:08,829
We did so many times, huh?

489
00:13:08,871 --> 00:13:10,039
-[Izukura] Yeah, yeah.

490
00:13:08,871 --> 00:13:10,039
-[Bourdain] Eating and drinking

491
00:13:10,081 --> 00:13:11,666
-and drawing.

492
00:13:10,081 --> 00:13:11,666
-[Takayama] Yeah, always.

493
00:13:11,708 --> 00:13:12,833
[Takayama]

494
00:13:11,708 --> 00:13:12,833
He teach me a lot of stuff.

495
00:13:12,875 --> 00:13:14,502
[Bourdain] So,

496
00:13:12,875 --> 00:13:14,502
when you're in New York...

497
00:13:14,544 --> 00:13:15,712
And the ceramics come,

498
00:13:15,754 --> 00:13:17,046
do you ever go,

499
00:13:15,754 --> 00:13:17,046
"What the--

500
00:13:17,088 --> 00:13:18,839
-Happened.

501
00:13:17,088 --> 00:13:18,839
-[Bourdain] --I don't remember."

502
00:13:18,881 --> 00:13:20,341
[Takayama] Happened.

503
00:13:18,881 --> 00:13:20,341
I get pissed.

504
00:13:20,383 --> 00:13:22,843
-[Bourdain] Your design, man.

505
00:13:20,383 --> 00:13:22,843
-Exactly.

506
00:13:22,885 --> 00:13:25,221
[Bourdain] Ninety minutes

507
00:13:22,885 --> 00:13:25,221
southeast of Kanazawa

508
00:13:25,263 --> 00:13:26,306
is a mountainous region

509
00:13:26,347 --> 00:13:28,849
known as Yamanaka Onsen.

510
00:13:28,891 --> 00:13:31,018
And it looks unlike any place

511
00:13:31,060 --> 00:13:32,895
I've ever been in Japan.

512
00:13:32,937 --> 00:13:35,356
Masa's good friend

513
00:13:32,937 --> 00:13:35,356
and art advisor,

514
00:13:35,398 --> 00:13:36,857
Haruo Konishi

515
00:13:36,899 --> 00:13:38,526
has a family hideaway here.

516
00:13:38,568 --> 00:13:40,737
A beautiful

517
00:13:38,568 --> 00:13:40,737
hundred twenty-year-old

518
00:13:40,779 --> 00:13:42,905
traditional kumiko-style home

519
00:13:42,947 --> 00:13:44,865
built around an irori,

520
00:13:44,907 --> 00:13:45,950
the sunken hearth

521
00:13:45,992 --> 00:13:48,161
in the middle

522
00:13:45,992 --> 00:13:48,161
of the living room.

523
00:13:48,202 --> 00:13:49,912
It's wild getting up here,

524
00:13:48,202 --> 00:13:49,912
the snow,

525
00:13:49,954 --> 00:13:52,165
-the rocks in the road.

526
00:13:49,954 --> 00:13:52,165
-[Konishi] Yeah, right.

527
00:13:52,206 --> 00:13:53,958
-Man, it's--ooh, pretty.

528
00:13:54,000 --> 00:13:55,251
Not only does the irori

529
00:13:55,293 --> 00:13:56,670
heat the entire house,

530
00:13:56,711 --> 00:13:58,379
it becomes the gathering place

531
00:13:58,421 --> 00:13:59,880
on nights like these.

532
00:13:59,922 --> 00:14:02,801
-[Takayama] Arigato. To cheers.

533
00:13:59,922 --> 00:14:02,801
-[Bourdain] Kanpai.

534
00:14:02,841 --> 00:14:03,884
They get together,

535
00:14:03,926 --> 00:14:05,094
cook, eat,

536
00:14:05,136 --> 00:14:06,346
drink large quantities

537
00:14:06,387 --> 00:14:07,388
of unfiltered,

538
00:14:07,430 --> 00:14:09,056
slightly chunky sake,

539
00:14:09,098 --> 00:14:10,891
and enjoy the country life.

540
00:14:10,933 --> 00:14:11,892
Looking good.

541
00:14:11,934 --> 00:14:13,728
The boys have laid out

542
00:14:11,934 --> 00:14:13,728
the makings

543
00:14:13,770 --> 00:14:15,563
of a pretty amazing feast.

544
00:14:15,605 --> 00:14:16,815
Iwana, or char,

545
00:14:16,897 --> 00:14:17,898
were caught today

546
00:14:17,940 --> 00:14:19,900
in a nearby mountain stream.

547
00:14:19,942 --> 00:14:22,069
Enormous Hokkaido scallops

548
00:14:22,111 --> 00:14:23,112
pulled this morning

549
00:14:23,154 --> 00:14:24,489
from the Sea of Japan

550
00:14:24,531 --> 00:14:27,074
sizzle and pucker

551
00:14:24,531 --> 00:14:27,074
in their shells

552
00:14:27,116 --> 00:14:28,785
over the fire in butter

553
00:14:27,116 --> 00:14:28,785
and lime juice

554
00:14:28,827 --> 00:14:31,912
and a touch of home-brewed

555
00:14:28,827 --> 00:14:31,912
soy sauce.

556
00:14:31,954 --> 00:14:34,624
Wild Japanese boar

557
00:14:31,954 --> 00:14:34,624
hangs above the coals

558
00:14:34,666 --> 00:14:36,917
radiating its sweet aroma

559
00:14:34,666 --> 00:14:36,917
as it cooks.

560
00:14:36,959 --> 00:14:38,628
-Look at that.

561
00:14:36,959 --> 00:14:38,628
-Yeah.

562
00:14:38,670 --> 00:14:40,505
[Bourdain] So, how long have

563
00:14:38,670 --> 00:14:40,505
you all known each other?

564
00:14:40,547 --> 00:14:42,590
-How many years?

565
00:14:40,547 --> 00:14:42,590
-[Takayama] About 30 years, huh?

566
00:14:42,632 --> 00:14:44,425
Right? We know each other?

567
00:14:44,467 --> 00:14:46,927
I love this kind of

568
00:14:44,467 --> 00:14:46,927
cooking, you know.

569
00:14:46,969 --> 00:14:48,429
-That's the way I like.

570
00:14:46,969 --> 00:14:48,429
-[Bourdain] Wow.

571
00:14:48,471 --> 00:14:49,764
[Takayama]

572
00:14:48,471 --> 00:14:49,764
Yeah, be careful, though.

573
00:14:49,806 --> 00:14:51,015
-It's hot, though.

574
00:14:49,806 --> 00:14:51,015
-[Bourdain] Yeah.

575
00:14:51,057 --> 00:14:53,934
[Takayama]

576
00:14:51,057 --> 00:14:53,934
The--ooh--hmm.

577
00:14:53,976 --> 00:14:55,228
-[Bourdain] Wow.

578
00:14:53,976 --> 00:14:55,228
-Yeah.

579
00:14:55,269 --> 00:14:56,604
Sweet.

580
00:14:56,646 --> 00:14:57,980
[Takayama] Where does

581
00:14:56,646 --> 00:14:57,980
this quail come from?

582
00:14:58,022 --> 00:14:59,232
[Konishi]

583
00:14:58,022 --> 00:14:59,232
From a nearby mountain.

584
00:14:59,273 --> 00:15:01,735
[Bourdain] Uzura,

585
00:14:59,273 --> 00:15:01,735
freshly caught local quail--

586
00:15:01,776 --> 00:15:03,944
is rubbed with olive oil,

587
00:15:01,776 --> 00:15:03,944
sprinkled with salt,

588
00:15:03,986 --> 00:15:07,156
and lightly glazed

589
00:15:03,986 --> 00:15:07,156
with that homemade soy.

590
00:15:07,198 --> 00:15:10,451
-[Takayama] Wonder how it is...

591
00:15:07,198 --> 00:15:10,451
-[Bourdain] Yeah.

592
00:15:10,493 --> 00:15:12,036
-Oh, wow.

593
00:15:10,493 --> 00:15:12,036
-[Takayama] How is it?

594
00:15:12,078 --> 00:15:13,371
-Good?

595
00:15:12,078 --> 00:15:13,371
-That's good.

596
00:15:13,413 --> 00:15:14,831
Uh-hmm.

597
00:15:14,873 --> 00:15:16,957
[Takayama] This kind of

598
00:15:14,873 --> 00:15:16,957
charcoal slow cooking

599
00:15:16,999 --> 00:15:18,585
gives this

600
00:15:16,999 --> 00:15:18,585
kind of flavor,

601
00:15:18,626 --> 00:15:21,045
soft, juicy.

602
00:15:23,214 --> 00:15:24,257
[Takayama speaks Japanese]

603
00:15:24,298 --> 00:15:25,341
How's the fish?

604
00:15:25,383 --> 00:15:26,426
[Konishi speaks Japanese]

605
00:15:26,467 --> 00:15:28,344
[laughter]

606
00:15:28,386 --> 00:15:29,970
[Takayama]

607
00:15:28,386 --> 00:15:29,970
You know what he said?

608
00:15:30,012 --> 00:15:31,347
Before fish,

609
00:15:30,012 --> 00:15:31,347
I'm gonna burn out.

610
00:15:31,389 --> 00:15:32,557
[laughter]

611
00:15:32,599 --> 00:15:33,600
So, him first? Right.

612
00:15:33,641 --> 00:15:34,975
[laughter]

613
00:15:35,017 --> 00:15:37,186
[Takayama] Don't hurry.

614
00:15:35,017 --> 00:15:37,186
Good food takes long time.

615
00:15:37,228 --> 00:15:39,439
[Bourdain] So, this big

616
00:15:37,228 --> 00:15:39,439
argument with the Spanish,

617
00:15:39,480 --> 00:15:40,565
big argument.

618
00:15:40,607 --> 00:15:43,234
Is umami a flavor

619
00:15:40,607 --> 00:15:43,234
or a sensation?

620
00:15:43,276 --> 00:15:45,653
[Takayama]

621
00:15:43,276 --> 00:15:45,653
Umami is essence,

622
00:15:45,695 --> 00:15:46,987
strong essence.

623
00:15:47,029 --> 00:15:48,865
[Bourdain] So,

624
00:15:47,029 --> 00:15:48,865
it's a mysterious force?

625
00:15:48,907 --> 00:15:51,868
[Takayama] Yeah.

626
00:15:48,907 --> 00:15:51,868
Much bigger than the universe.

627
00:15:51,910 --> 00:15:54,454
-Bigger than flavor.

628
00:15:51,910 --> 00:15:54,454
-Of course.

629
00:15:54,495 --> 00:15:57,498
This vegetable

630
00:15:54,495 --> 00:15:57,498
is called fukinoto.

631
00:15:57,540 --> 00:16:01,294
Under the ground,

632
00:15:57,540 --> 00:16:01,294
covered with snow, cold.

633
00:16:01,335 --> 00:16:03,254
Then, little by little bit,

634
00:16:03,296 --> 00:16:05,381
it opens up like that.

635
00:16:05,423 --> 00:16:08,718
This is first sign

636
00:16:05,423 --> 00:16:08,718
of the spring.

637
00:16:08,760 --> 00:16:10,052
We appreciate that.

638
00:16:10,094 --> 00:16:11,262
How do you cook this?

639
00:16:11,304 --> 00:16:15,015
Grill, fried,

640
00:16:15,057 --> 00:16:16,100
or braise it.

641
00:16:16,142 --> 00:16:17,685
-I'm gonna grill it.

642
00:16:16,142 --> 00:16:17,685
-Hmm.

643
00:16:17,727 --> 00:16:20,855
Little bit oil,

644
00:16:17,727 --> 00:16:20,855
then little bit salt.

645
00:16:20,897 --> 00:16:23,065
This gets so happy,

646
00:16:20,897 --> 00:16:23,065
the phases,

647
00:16:23,107 --> 00:16:24,233
so happy.

648
00:16:24,275 --> 00:16:26,319
They want to be

649
00:16:24,275 --> 00:16:26,319
cooked this way.

650
00:16:26,360 --> 00:16:28,028
Their blood

651
00:16:26,360 --> 00:16:28,028
is bitterness,

652
00:16:28,070 --> 00:16:29,322
very bitter.

653
00:16:29,363 --> 00:16:31,282
Need bitterness

654
00:16:29,363 --> 00:16:31,282
to grow.

655
00:16:31,324 --> 00:16:32,450
[Bourdain]

656
00:16:31,324 --> 00:16:32,450
This is Italian.

657
00:16:32,492 --> 00:16:33,910
This--amaro dolce,

658
00:16:33,952 --> 00:16:35,662
at the end

659
00:16:33,952 --> 00:16:35,662
of an Italian meal.

660
00:16:35,703 --> 00:16:38,539
-Exactly.

661
00:16:35,703 --> 00:16:38,539
-Sweet, fat, sweet, fat.

662
00:16:38,581 --> 00:16:40,291
At the end of the meal,

663
00:16:38,581 --> 00:16:40,291
something bitter

664
00:16:40,333 --> 00:16:42,335
to remind you

665
00:16:40,333 --> 00:16:42,335
of the sadness.

666
00:16:42,376 --> 00:16:44,504
This is the umami, too.

667
00:16:44,545 --> 00:16:47,674
That kind of sensibility,

668
00:16:44,545 --> 00:16:47,674
I didn't know that.

669
00:16:47,715 --> 00:16:50,050
He taught me this

670
00:16:47,715 --> 00:16:50,050
kind of delicacy.

671
00:16:50,092 --> 00:16:51,427
He's my maestro,

672
00:16:51,469 --> 00:16:53,513
teacher, you know?

673
00:16:53,554 --> 00:16:55,598
Tony, try this.

674
00:16:57,350 --> 00:16:58,685
Strong herb, right?

675
00:16:58,726 --> 00:17:00,269
But you're right, umami,

676
00:16:58,726 --> 00:17:00,269
it's deep.

677
00:17:00,311 --> 00:17:02,062
There's umami.

678
00:17:02,104 --> 00:17:03,982
♪ ♪

679
00:17:07,026 --> 00:17:08,152
[Bourdain] Among Izukura-san's

680
00:17:08,194 --> 00:17:09,278
many skills apparently

681
00:17:09,320 --> 00:17:11,113
is a shocking proficiency

682
00:17:11,155 --> 00:17:12,991
at making soba noodles.

683
00:17:13,032 --> 00:17:16,035
♪ ♪

684
00:17:23,835 --> 00:17:25,169
[Bourdain] Tonight,

685
00:17:23,835 --> 00:17:25,169
the soba is paired up

686
00:17:25,211 --> 00:17:27,547
with slices of tender duck

687
00:17:25,211 --> 00:17:27,547
and green onion

688
00:17:27,588 --> 00:17:29,089
grilled over the irori.

689
00:17:29,131 --> 00:17:30,758
-[Takayama] Nice, al dente.

690
00:17:29,131 --> 00:17:30,758
-[Bourdain] Uh-hmm.

691
00:17:30,800 --> 00:17:33,761
-His soba is best soba.

692
00:17:30,800 --> 00:17:33,761
-[Bourdain] Perfect.

693
00:17:33,803 --> 00:17:35,889
Then, topped by a warm

694
00:17:33,803 --> 00:17:35,889
dashi sauce

695
00:17:35,930 --> 00:17:38,725
made of soy, mirin,

696
00:17:35,930 --> 00:17:38,725
and a touch of sugar.

697
00:17:38,766 --> 00:17:41,310
[Takayama] I'm so glad

698
00:17:38,766 --> 00:17:41,310
we can share with this moment

699
00:17:41,352 --> 00:17:43,897
with my old friend,

700
00:17:41,352 --> 00:17:43,897
you know?

701
00:17:43,938 --> 00:17:46,524
-[Bourdain] Hmm.

702
00:17:43,938 --> 00:17:46,524
-Called ichi-go ichi-e.

703
00:17:46,566 --> 00:17:48,275
-You know that word is?

704
00:17:46,566 --> 00:17:48,275
-[Bourdain] No, tell me.

705
00:17:48,317 --> 00:17:50,361
[Takayama]

706
00:17:48,317 --> 00:17:50,361
Once in life this moment.

707
00:17:50,403 --> 00:17:52,780
We appreciate,

708
00:17:50,403 --> 00:17:52,780
respect each other,

709
00:17:52,822 --> 00:17:54,114
enjoying this moment.

710
00:17:54,156 --> 00:17:56,158
-[Bourdain] Ichi-go ichi-e.

711
00:17:54,156 --> 00:17:56,158
-[Takayama] Never again.

712
00:17:56,200 --> 00:17:59,161
-[Bourdain] Never again.

713
00:17:56,200 --> 00:17:59,161
-[Takayama] Yeah. Exactly.

714
00:18:03,165 --> 00:18:06,085
♪ ♪

715
00:18:20,558 --> 00:18:23,644
[Bourdain] Sushi--

716
00:18:20,558 --> 00:18:23,644
and not just sushi.

717
00:18:23,686 --> 00:18:25,145
Sushi made one of the oldest,

718
00:18:25,187 --> 00:18:27,189
most iconic, respected,

719
00:18:27,231 --> 00:18:29,567
best establishments

720
00:18:27,231 --> 00:18:29,567
in the world.

721
00:18:29,609 --> 00:18:31,527
The place where it all began,

722
00:18:31,569 --> 00:18:33,237
not just for Masa Takayama,

723
00:18:33,279 --> 00:18:35,155
but generations of young,

724
00:18:35,197 --> 00:18:36,074
predominantly male

725
00:18:36,115 --> 00:18:38,158
sushi apprentices or deshis,

726
00:18:38,200 --> 00:18:40,160
who went on to open

727
00:18:38,200 --> 00:18:40,160
their own places

728
00:18:40,202 --> 00:18:42,162
all over the world.

729
00:18:42,204 --> 00:18:45,792
This is Ginza Sushi-ko

730
00:18:42,204 --> 00:18:45,792
in Tokyo.

731
00:18:45,833 --> 00:18:46,876
The original.

732
00:18:46,918 --> 00:18:49,169
A hundred thirty years old.

733
00:18:49,211 --> 00:18:50,755
And for all that time,

734
00:18:50,797 --> 00:18:52,214
this, in one form or the other,

735
00:18:52,256 --> 00:18:53,674
is how the day started,

736
00:18:53,716 --> 00:18:56,260
scaling and gutting the fish,

737
00:18:56,302 --> 00:18:58,178
prepping the kitchen.

738
00:18:58,220 --> 00:18:59,639
-[Takayama] Cleaning bathroom.

739
00:18:58,220 --> 00:18:59,639
-[Bourdain] Uh-hmm.

740
00:18:59,680 --> 00:19:01,808
-Making sake for customer.

741
00:18:59,680 --> 00:19:01,808
-Right.

742
00:19:01,849 --> 00:19:03,017
-Dishwasher.

743
00:19:01,849 --> 00:19:03,017
-[Bourdain] Uh-hmm.

744
00:19:03,059 --> 00:19:04,602
-Everything.

745
00:19:03,059 --> 00:19:04,602
-For how long?

746
00:19:04,644 --> 00:19:06,980
First two years.

747
00:19:07,021 --> 00:19:10,108
[Bourdain] Only in the third

748
00:19:07,021 --> 00:19:10,108
year, the rice.

749
00:19:10,149 --> 00:19:12,192
[Takayama]

750
00:19:10,149 --> 00:19:12,192
The rice is very important.

751
00:19:12,234 --> 00:19:14,487
[Bourdain]

752
00:19:12,234 --> 00:19:14,487
And if you get that right,

753
00:19:14,528 --> 00:19:16,196
eventually, maybe, just maybe,

754
00:19:16,238 --> 00:19:17,907
the master will begin

755
00:19:16,238 --> 00:19:17,907
to teach you

756
00:19:17,949 --> 00:19:20,701
the next phase,

757
00:19:17,949 --> 00:19:20,701
how to stand next to him

758
00:19:20,743 --> 00:19:22,202
as a wakita,

759
00:19:22,244 --> 00:19:23,579
slicing the fish,

760
00:19:23,621 --> 00:19:25,498
eventually--eventually--

761
00:19:25,539 --> 00:19:27,291
creating pieces of nigiri

762
00:19:27,333 --> 00:19:28,918
for guests at the bar.

763
00:19:28,960 --> 00:19:31,211
Of the dozen young men

764
00:19:28,960 --> 00:19:31,211
who work here,

765
00:19:31,253 --> 00:19:32,672
not all will make it

766
00:19:32,713 --> 00:19:34,882
to become a sushi shokunin.

767
00:19:34,924 --> 00:19:36,216
Oh, it's long time.

768
00:19:36,258 --> 00:19:37,593
[Bourdain]

769
00:19:36,258 --> 00:19:37,593
To achieve that status

770
00:19:37,635 --> 00:19:41,014
of truly becoming

771
00:19:37,635 --> 00:19:41,014
a master chef.

772
00:19:41,055 --> 00:19:42,932
How many years?

773
00:19:41,055 --> 00:19:42,932
Seven years to learn, right?

774
00:19:42,974 --> 00:19:44,308
-[Takayama] Yeah.

775
00:19:42,974 --> 00:19:44,308
-[Bourdain] That's a lot

776
00:19:42,974 --> 00:19:44,308
of time.

777
00:19:44,350 --> 00:19:46,477
-[Takayama] A lot of time.

778
00:19:44,350 --> 00:19:46,477
-[Bourdain] A lot of work,

779
00:19:46,519 --> 00:19:48,228
-a lot of pain.

780
00:19:46,519 --> 00:19:48,228
-[Takayama] Exactly.

781
00:19:48,270 --> 00:19:50,940
[Bourdain] What was it like

782
00:19:48,270 --> 00:19:50,940
apprenticing here? Hard?

783
00:19:50,982 --> 00:19:52,733
[Takayama]

784
00:19:50,982 --> 00:19:52,733
His father was pretty tough.

785
00:19:52,775 --> 00:19:54,735
-Yeah.

786
00:19:52,775 --> 00:19:54,735
-Very tough. At that time,

787
00:19:54,777 --> 00:19:56,320
his grandfather

788
00:19:54,777 --> 00:19:56,320
was here, too,

789
00:19:56,362 --> 00:19:58,906
very tough.

790
00:19:58,948 --> 00:20:01,034
[Bourdain] Young Masa

791
00:19:58,948 --> 00:20:01,034
was first hired here

792
00:20:01,075 --> 00:20:04,244
as an apprentice

793
00:20:01,075 --> 00:20:04,244
by shokunin Toshiaki Sugiyama.

794
00:20:04,286 --> 00:20:06,246
This is his son,

795
00:20:06,288 --> 00:20:07,414
Mamoru Sugiyama,

796
00:20:07,456 --> 00:20:09,249
who runs Sushiko today.

797
00:20:09,291 --> 00:20:11,836
The fourth generation

798
00:20:09,291 --> 00:20:11,836
to uphold the standards

799
00:20:11,878 --> 00:20:13,462
and family tradition.

800
00:20:13,504 --> 00:20:16,090
[Sugiyama] Nothing much

801
00:20:13,504 --> 00:20:16,090
has changed about what we do.

802
00:20:16,132 --> 00:20:17,133
Nothing much.

803
00:20:17,175 --> 00:20:18,509
[Bourdain]

804
00:20:17,175 --> 00:20:18,509
Things should stay the same.

805
00:20:18,551 --> 00:20:20,011
[Takayama] Yes.

806
00:20:20,720 --> 00:20:22,096
This is aji.

807
00:20:22,138 --> 00:20:23,556
-[Takayama] Aji.

808
00:20:22,138 --> 00:20:23,556
-This is topped with ginger,

809
00:20:23,597 --> 00:20:25,432
so please mix.

810
00:20:25,474 --> 00:20:26,642
[Bourdain]

811
00:20:25,474 --> 00:20:26,642
Seared horse mackerel

812
00:20:26,684 --> 00:20:28,728
over green onion and ginger,

813
00:20:28,769 --> 00:20:30,312
drizzled with house made soy.

814
00:20:30,354 --> 00:20:32,314
[Takayama] You got to love

815
00:20:30,354 --> 00:20:32,314
this kind of stuff, very simple,

816
00:20:32,356 --> 00:20:34,734
-right?

817
00:20:32,356 --> 00:20:34,734
-[Bourdain] Yeah,

818
00:20:32,356 --> 00:20:34,734
it's fantastic.

819
00:20:35,693 --> 00:20:39,279
-[Bourdain] Hmm.

820
00:20:35,693 --> 00:20:39,279
-[Takayama] Delicious.

821
00:20:39,321 --> 00:20:40,531
Love it.

822
00:20:40,573 --> 00:20:42,700
I feel nostalgic.

823
00:20:46,620 --> 00:20:48,330
See, he's going to marinate it

824
00:20:46,620 --> 00:20:48,330
in soy sauce.

825
00:20:48,372 --> 00:20:50,750
It's very old style.

826
00:20:50,791 --> 00:20:52,501
[Bourdain]

827
00:20:50,791 --> 00:20:52,501
Yeah, looks good. Yeah.

828
00:20:52,543 --> 00:20:56,005
♪ ♪

829
00:20:58,507 --> 00:21:00,551
[Bourdain]

830
00:20:58,507 --> 00:21:00,551
Maguro--bluefin tuna,

831
00:21:00,593 --> 00:21:03,512
prepared in classic zuke style.

832
00:21:03,554 --> 00:21:05,598
That's so beautiful.

833
00:21:05,639 --> 00:21:07,892
What happen if you do

834
00:21:05,639 --> 00:21:07,892
a bad job?

835
00:21:07,934 --> 00:21:09,351
He didn't slap,

836
00:21:07,934 --> 00:21:09,351
but, you know,

837
00:21:09,393 --> 00:21:11,311
the thing is,

838
00:21:11,353 --> 00:21:14,398
louder punishment.

839
00:21:14,440 --> 00:21:16,316
Yeah. You don't go home

840
00:21:14,440 --> 00:21:16,316
feeling good.

841
00:21:16,358 --> 00:21:17,193
Yelling, you know, yelling.

842
00:21:17,235 --> 00:21:18,569
-[Bourdain] Yelling.

843
00:21:17,235 --> 00:21:18,569
-Yelling.

844
00:21:18,611 --> 00:21:22,031
♪ ♪

845
00:21:23,991 --> 00:21:26,035
[Bourdain] How does he remember

846
00:21:23,991 --> 00:21:26,035
you? Good guy, bad guy,

847
00:21:26,077 --> 00:21:27,036
pain in the ass?

848
00:21:27,078 --> 00:21:28,704
[Takayama]

849
00:21:27,078 --> 00:21:28,704
Can you to tell them stories

850
00:21:28,746 --> 00:21:30,330
from when I used to work

851
00:21:28,746 --> 00:21:30,330
with you?

852
00:21:30,372 --> 00:21:31,832
[laughter]

853
00:21:31,874 --> 00:21:34,127
[Sugiyama] He used to play

854
00:21:31,874 --> 00:21:34,127
the saxophone back in the day.

855
00:21:34,168 --> 00:21:35,836
-[Bourdain] Saxophone?

856
00:21:34,168 --> 00:21:35,836
-[Sugiyama] And he'd start

857
00:21:35,878 --> 00:21:37,630
playing in the middle

858
00:21:35,878 --> 00:21:37,630
of the night.

859
00:21:37,671 --> 00:21:38,798
No one sleeps in Ginza,

860
00:21:38,839 --> 00:21:40,967
so being loud is usually

861
00:21:38,839 --> 00:21:40,967
not a problem.

862
00:21:41,008 --> 00:21:42,342
But us, we were sleeping.

863
00:21:42,384 --> 00:21:44,344
He was being loud

864
00:21:42,384 --> 00:21:44,344
when we were trying to sleep.

865
00:21:44,386 --> 00:21:47,347
Wait, is he any good

866
00:21:44,386 --> 00:21:47,347
at saxophone?

867
00:21:47,389 --> 00:21:50,059
-Good.

868
00:21:47,389 --> 00:21:50,059
-[Takayama laughs]

869
00:21:50,101 --> 00:21:50,935
I love jazz.

870
00:21:50,977 --> 00:21:52,352
I didn't watch

871
00:21:50,977 --> 00:21:52,352
anything about it

872
00:21:52,394 --> 00:21:53,395
till I started working here.

873
00:21:53,437 --> 00:21:54,981
When there's Sunday,

874
00:21:53,437 --> 00:21:54,981
day off,

875
00:21:55,022 --> 00:21:56,356
taking class a little bit.

876
00:21:56,398 --> 00:21:57,775
I play in here

877
00:21:56,398 --> 00:21:57,775
in the bathroom.

878
00:21:57,817 --> 00:21:59,359
-Here?

879
00:21:57,817 --> 00:21:59,359
-[Takayama] At work.

880
00:21:59,401 --> 00:22:02,571
Yeah, I put the cloth in

881
00:21:59,401 --> 00:22:02,571
the bell, then play like that.

882
00:22:02,613 --> 00:22:03,990
My God. They probably

883
00:22:02,613 --> 00:22:03,990
wanted to kill you.

884
00:22:04,031 --> 00:22:05,616
You're a very

885
00:22:04,031 --> 00:22:05,616
unusual man.

886
00:22:05,658 --> 00:22:06,993
[laughter]

887
00:22:07,034 --> 00:22:10,204
♪ ♪

888
00:22:15,251 --> 00:22:17,670
[Takayama]

889
00:22:15,251 --> 00:22:17,670
Sushi is the best meal.

890
00:22:17,711 --> 00:22:20,298
We can enjoy every single

891
00:22:17,711 --> 00:22:20,298
small piece,

892
00:22:20,339 --> 00:22:21,174
different fish.

893
00:22:21,215 --> 00:22:22,800
We can see the chef

894
00:22:21,215 --> 00:22:22,800
right there.

895
00:22:22,842 --> 00:22:24,677
He's slicing--

896
00:22:22,842 --> 00:22:24,677
watch while

897
00:22:24,718 --> 00:22:26,386
he makes it from right here.

898
00:22:26,428 --> 00:22:28,055
-And eat.

899
00:22:26,428 --> 00:22:28,055
-[Bourdain] Right.

900
00:22:28,097 --> 00:22:29,389
[Sugiyama]

901
00:22:28,097 --> 00:22:29,389
This is hirame.

902
00:22:29,431 --> 00:22:30,474
♪ ♪

903
00:22:30,516 --> 00:22:32,392
[Bourdain]

904
00:22:30,516 --> 00:22:32,392
Japanese tiger prawn,

905
00:22:32,434 --> 00:22:34,187
octopus,

906
00:22:34,228 --> 00:22:36,105
and fluke sashimi.

907
00:22:36,147 --> 00:22:40,400
[Takayama] Japanese cooking,

908
00:22:36,147 --> 00:22:40,400
we care very much on the ki,

909
00:22:40,442 --> 00:22:41,568
which is fighting spirits.

910
00:22:41,610 --> 00:22:43,570
-Like this, right?

911
00:22:41,610 --> 00:22:43,570
-Uh-hmm.

912
00:22:43,612 --> 00:22:44,613
Striped jack

913
00:22:44,655 --> 00:22:46,699
brushed with soy and sake.

914
00:22:46,740 --> 00:22:49,785
[Sugiyami] It is indeed

915
00:22:46,740 --> 00:22:49,785
about this, this moment.

916
00:22:49,827 --> 00:22:52,412
[Takayama] This moment.

917
00:22:49,827 --> 00:22:52,412
Do not miss this.

918
00:22:52,454 --> 00:22:54,332
Then, grab it, right?

919
00:22:54,372 --> 00:22:55,916
Then, eat. See?

920
00:22:55,958 --> 00:22:57,417
-Hmm.

921
00:22:55,958 --> 00:22:57,417
-[Takayama] That's why

922
00:22:57,459 --> 00:22:58,669
you got to eat quickly.

923
00:22:58,711 --> 00:23:01,297
If thirty second,

924
00:22:58,711 --> 00:23:01,297
one minute--

925
00:23:01,339 --> 00:23:04,424
-It's dying.

926
00:23:01,339 --> 00:23:04,424
-Ki is leaving somewhere.

927
00:23:04,466 --> 00:23:05,425
[laughs]

928
00:23:05,467 --> 00:23:08,762
♪ ♪

929
00:23:09,972 --> 00:23:11,349
[Takayama]

930
00:23:09,972 --> 00:23:11,349
Almost like the fish,

931
00:23:11,389 --> 00:23:13,600
the sushis arrive moving,

932
00:23:13,642 --> 00:23:15,602
swimming.

933
00:23:15,644 --> 00:23:17,146
Very fast.

934
00:23:17,188 --> 00:23:18,272
Done.

935
00:23:18,314 --> 00:23:19,273
Amazing.

936
00:23:19,315 --> 00:23:21,441
This moment almost

937
00:23:19,315 --> 00:23:21,441
ended right there.

938
00:23:21,483 --> 00:23:23,443
It's very important.

939
00:23:23,485 --> 00:23:24,862
[Bourdain] Anago or sea eel,

940
00:23:24,904 --> 00:23:28,448
a hand roll in fresh

941
00:23:24,904 --> 00:23:28,448
crackling seaweed.

942
00:23:28,490 --> 00:23:30,450
[crunching]

943
00:23:30,492 --> 00:23:32,619
Hmm, oh, man.

944
00:23:32,661 --> 00:23:36,456
[both crunching]

945
00:23:36,498 --> 00:23:37,666
Wow.

946
00:23:37,708 --> 00:23:41,628
This is our famous tamago-yaki.

947
00:23:41,670 --> 00:23:43,547
The recipe is exactly the same

948
00:23:43,589 --> 00:23:44,757
as it was 100 years ago.

949
00:23:44,798 --> 00:23:46,300
[Takayama]

950
00:23:44,798 --> 00:23:46,300
His father told me that--

951
00:23:46,342 --> 00:23:47,760
-[Bourdain] Right.

952
00:23:46,342 --> 00:23:47,760
-[Takayama] --I did a great job

953
00:23:47,801 --> 00:23:49,929
-for this.

954
00:23:47,801 --> 00:23:49,929
-This is very difficult.

955
00:23:49,970 --> 00:23:51,347
Yeah.

956
00:23:58,562 --> 00:24:02,983
[Sugiyama] I learn

957
00:23:58,562 --> 00:24:02,983
to make this from him.

958
00:24:03,025 --> 00:24:06,362
[Takayama] Please teach

959
00:24:03,025 --> 00:24:06,362
my son what he said.

960
00:24:06,404 --> 00:24:07,487
Ah.

961
00:24:07,529 --> 00:24:09,489
Wow, look at that.

962
00:24:09,531 --> 00:24:12,118
♪ ♪

963
00:24:13,786 --> 00:24:16,414
[Takayama]

964
00:24:13,786 --> 00:24:16,414
This has lots of shrimp eggs,

965
00:24:16,454 --> 00:24:17,497
all those eggs,

966
00:24:17,539 --> 00:24:19,583
-and fish paste season.

967
00:24:19,625 --> 00:24:20,709
-[Bourdain] Really?

968
00:24:20,751 --> 00:24:23,170
[Takayama] Very special stuff.

969
00:24:23,212 --> 00:24:26,006
♪ ♪

970
00:24:28,842 --> 00:24:30,970
[Bourdain]

971
00:24:28,842 --> 00:24:30,970
Did he ever think back then

972
00:24:31,011 --> 00:24:32,679
that you would be

973
00:24:31,011 --> 00:24:32,679
a success in America?

974
00:24:32,721 --> 00:24:35,015
Or did he think,

975
00:24:32,721 --> 00:24:35,015
"Bad move."?

976
00:24:35,057 --> 00:24:35,891
[laughter]

977
00:24:35,933 --> 00:24:37,977
You were rather...

978
00:24:38,018 --> 00:24:39,728
aggressive, so to say.

979
00:24:39,770 --> 00:24:41,981
-Ambitious.

980
00:24:39,770 --> 00:24:41,981
-Exactly, ambitious.

981
00:24:42,022 --> 00:24:43,732
[Sugiyama]

982
00:24:42,022 --> 00:24:43,732
For example, I was going at it

983
00:24:43,774 --> 00:24:46,902
with the mission to preserve...

984
00:24:46,944 --> 00:24:49,822
and carry on the craft

985
00:24:46,944 --> 00:24:49,822
of my father, right?

986
00:24:49,863 --> 00:24:51,615
But in your case,

987
00:24:49,863 --> 00:24:51,615
you've had to change the menu

988
00:24:51,657 --> 00:24:53,533
and constantly

989
00:24:51,657 --> 00:24:53,533
show your creativity.

990
00:24:53,575 --> 00:24:55,619
And that's how you got to

991
00:24:55,661 --> 00:24:58,538
where you are today.

992
00:24:58,580 --> 00:24:59,539
You haven't changed much at all.

993
00:24:59,581 --> 00:25:00,582
[Sugiyama] No, that's not true.

994
00:25:00,624 --> 00:25:03,210
I'm getting old.

995
00:25:03,252 --> 00:25:04,837
Life starts here.

996
00:25:04,878 --> 00:25:07,131
From now on

997
00:25:04,878 --> 00:25:07,131
is the good part.

998
00:25:07,173 --> 00:25:09,175
From here on

999
00:25:07,173 --> 00:25:09,175
you've got to have fun.

1000
00:25:09,216 --> 00:25:10,759
You and me both.

1001
00:25:11,593 --> 00:25:15,014
♪ ♪

1002
00:25:20,644 --> 00:25:23,272
♪ ♪

1003
00:25:27,609 --> 00:25:28,735
[Bourdain]

1004
00:25:27,609 --> 00:25:28,735
Nasushiobara is a town

1005
00:25:28,777 --> 00:25:31,571
like many others

1006
00:25:28,777 --> 00:25:31,571
in rural Japan.

1007
00:25:31,613 --> 00:25:32,614
The kind of Japanese town

1008
00:25:32,656 --> 00:25:33,949
we don't see much of

1009
00:25:33,991 --> 00:25:35,575
in movies or television.

1010
00:25:35,617 --> 00:25:37,577
A once-traditional

1011
00:25:35,617 --> 00:25:37,577
farming community,

1012
00:25:37,619 --> 00:25:38,620
slow-paced,

1013
00:25:38,662 --> 00:25:40,039
inward-looking,

1014
00:25:40,080 --> 00:25:41,581
the opposite end

1015
00:25:40,080 --> 00:25:41,581
of the universe,

1016
00:25:41,623 --> 00:25:44,584
culturally,

1017
00:25:41,623 --> 00:25:44,584
from New York and Tokyo,

1018
00:25:44,626 --> 00:25:46,586
even from Kanazawa.

1019
00:25:46,628 --> 00:25:48,797
[Ishi] It was rice fields

1020
00:25:46,628 --> 00:25:48,797
all around

1021
00:25:48,839 --> 00:25:50,508
and there were farmlands

1022
00:25:48,839 --> 00:25:50,508
in the back.

1023
00:25:50,548 --> 00:25:52,843
Though there was not even

1024
00:25:50,548 --> 00:25:52,843
trace of that anymore.

1025
00:25:54,345 --> 00:25:56,472
Since the bullet trained

1026
00:25:54,345 --> 00:25:56,472
started coming,

1027
00:25:56,514 --> 00:25:57,890
I became so lively.

1028
00:25:57,931 --> 00:26:00,600
[Bourdain] It used to be

1029
00:25:57,931 --> 00:26:00,600
a five-hour trip from Tokyo,

1030
00:26:00,642 --> 00:26:01,810
now reduced to two

1031
00:26:01,852 --> 00:26:04,397
by the Shinkansen bullet train.

1032
00:26:04,438 --> 00:26:06,857
Why don't we have these

1033
00:26:04,438 --> 00:26:06,857
in America, by the way?

1034
00:26:06,899 --> 00:26:09,651
Ask your congressman.

1035
00:26:09,693 --> 00:26:11,820
This rather drab,

1036
00:26:09,693 --> 00:26:11,820
featureless place

1037
00:26:11,862 --> 00:26:14,614
is where Masa

1038
00:26:11,862 --> 00:26:14,614
was born and raised

1039
00:26:14,656 --> 00:26:16,283
and could well have stayed.

1040
00:26:16,325 --> 00:26:17,617
But then, everything

1041
00:26:17,659 --> 00:26:20,120
would've been different.

1042
00:26:20,162 --> 00:26:23,623
Masa's dad,

1043
00:26:20,162 --> 00:26:23,623
Yoshio, recently passed.

1044
00:26:23,665 --> 00:26:24,708
But his mom, Ishi,

1045
00:26:24,750 --> 00:26:26,126
is still going strong,

1046
00:26:26,168 --> 00:26:28,546
the center of the family.

1047
00:26:28,586 --> 00:26:31,507
[Ishi] It's been while,

1048
00:26:28,586 --> 00:26:31,507
wasn't it?

1049
00:26:31,549 --> 00:26:34,218
Welcome home.

1050
00:26:34,260 --> 00:26:36,095
[Bourdain]

1051
00:26:34,260 --> 00:26:36,095
Nice to meet you.

1052
00:26:37,054 --> 00:26:40,099
♪ ♪

1053
00:26:47,981 --> 00:26:49,649
[Bourdain]

1054
00:26:47,981 --> 00:26:49,649
Catherine is Masa's daughter,

1055
00:26:49,691 --> 00:26:51,860
California-raised,

1056
00:26:49,691 --> 00:26:51,860
but a frequent visitor

1057
00:26:51,902 --> 00:26:53,487
to the family home.

1058
00:26:53,529 --> 00:26:55,573
She and her grandmother

1059
00:26:53,529 --> 00:26:55,573
are preparing

1060
00:26:55,613 --> 00:26:56,656
some familiar comfort foods

1061
00:26:56,698 --> 00:26:59,701
to celebrate

1062
00:26:56,698 --> 00:26:59,701
Masa's homecoming.

1063
00:26:59,743 --> 00:27:01,579
[Ishi and Takayama

1064
00:26:59,743 --> 00:27:01,579
speaks Japanese]

1065
00:27:04,915 --> 00:27:07,460
[Bourdain] Motsuni

1066
00:27:04,915 --> 00:27:07,460
is a slow-simmered stew

1067
00:27:07,501 --> 00:27:08,877
of pork tripe, konnyaku,

1068
00:27:08,919 --> 00:27:10,670
daikon, green onions,

1069
00:27:10,712 --> 00:27:12,047
and miso.

1070
00:27:12,089 --> 00:27:13,257
Ooh.

1071
00:27:13,299 --> 00:27:15,384
-What's that?

1072
00:27:13,299 --> 00:27:15,384
-[Bourdain] Lot of food, right?

1073
00:27:15,426 --> 00:27:18,137
[Takayama] This is

1074
00:27:15,426 --> 00:27:18,137
the country food. [laughs]

1075
00:27:18,178 --> 00:27:19,472
Kanpai.

1076
00:27:19,513 --> 00:27:20,680
Welcome home. [laughs]

1077
00:27:20,722 --> 00:27:22,682
Thank you very much,

1078
00:27:20,722 --> 00:27:22,682
it's a pleasure to meet you.

1079
00:27:22,724 --> 00:27:23,683
[Bourdain] Kanpai.

1080
00:27:23,725 --> 00:27:25,394
You don't get this

1081
00:27:23,725 --> 00:27:25,394
in New York.

1082
00:27:25,436 --> 00:27:26,686
[Takayama] No.

1083
00:27:26,728 --> 00:27:27,854
Hmm, hmm.

1084
00:27:27,896 --> 00:27:29,731
[Takayama speaks

1085
00:27:27,896 --> 00:27:29,731
in Japanese]

1086
00:27:29,773 --> 00:27:30,690
This is really good.

1087
00:27:30,732 --> 00:27:32,359
-I see why you love this.

1088
00:27:30,732 --> 00:27:32,359
-Uh-hmm.

1089
00:27:32,401 --> 00:27:34,487
[Bourdain] Catherine,

1090
00:27:32,401 --> 00:27:34,487
by the way, is a pastry chef

1091
00:27:34,528 --> 00:27:36,405
at the great restaurant

1092
00:27:34,528 --> 00:27:36,405
The French Laundry

1093
00:27:36,447 --> 00:27:37,490
in the Napa Valley.

1094
00:27:37,531 --> 00:27:39,366
So, high-level cooking seems

1095
00:27:39,408 --> 00:27:40,700
to run in the family.

1096
00:27:40,742 --> 00:27:42,286
So, you grew up sitting

1097
00:27:40,742 --> 00:27:42,286
in the sushi bar.

1098
00:27:42,328 --> 00:27:45,122
[Catherin] I did, yeah,

1099
00:27:42,328 --> 00:27:45,122
sitting on the milk crate

1100
00:27:45,164 --> 00:27:46,706
with a cheeseburger

1101
00:27:45,164 --> 00:27:46,706
in front.

1102
00:27:46,748 --> 00:27:49,709
And I'd watch my dad

1103
00:27:46,748 --> 00:27:49,709
prepping.

1104
00:27:49,751 --> 00:27:52,879
-Uh-hmm.

1105
00:27:49,751 --> 00:27:52,879
-And I'd call out, "Dad!"

1106
00:27:52,921 --> 00:27:54,507
And he'd be like,

1107
00:27:52,921 --> 00:27:54,507
"I'm not your Dad here."

1108
00:27:54,548 --> 00:27:56,716
-I was like... [gasps]

1109
00:27:54,548 --> 00:27:56,716
-Oh, that's funny.

1110
00:27:56,758 --> 00:27:58,594
What did you do

1111
00:27:56,758 --> 00:27:58,594
for fun back there?

1112
00:27:58,636 --> 00:28:01,514
-I was eating.

1113
00:27:58,636 --> 00:28:01,514
-[laughter]

1114
00:28:01,555 --> 00:28:03,223
[Bourdain] Your father was in

1115
00:28:01,555 --> 00:28:03,223
the fish business, wholesale?

1116
00:28:03,265 --> 00:28:04,891
[Takayama] Fisherman,

1117
00:28:03,265 --> 00:28:04,891
yeah. Oh, retail.

1118
00:28:04,933 --> 00:28:07,520
-He made sashimi, right?

1119
00:28:04,933 --> 00:28:07,520
-Uh-hmm.

1120
00:28:07,561 --> 00:28:10,189
♪ ♪

1121
00:28:10,230 --> 00:28:11,898
[Ishi] The way we started

1122
00:28:10,230 --> 00:28:11,898
the fish shop

1123
00:28:11,940 --> 00:28:15,735
was because of my parents

1124
00:28:11,940 --> 00:28:15,735
had a business.

1125
00:28:15,777 --> 00:28:16,945
When you had a lot of children

1126
00:28:16,987 --> 00:28:18,905
you needed to take care

1127
00:28:16,987 --> 00:28:18,905
of them...

1128
00:28:18,947 --> 00:28:22,660
at home while somehow

1129
00:28:18,947 --> 00:28:22,660
making a living.

1130
00:28:22,700 --> 00:28:23,743
Fish and dried goods,

1131
00:28:23,785 --> 00:28:24,828
and vegetables.

1132
00:28:24,870 --> 00:28:27,331
We also did catering.

1133
00:28:27,373 --> 00:28:29,333
[Bourdain] Masa, his brother,

1134
00:28:27,373 --> 00:28:29,333
and three sisters

1135
00:28:29,375 --> 00:28:31,418
all work for the family

1136
00:28:29,375 --> 00:28:31,418
business

1137
00:28:31,460 --> 00:28:32,670
every day after school

1138
00:28:32,710 --> 00:28:33,920
and on weekends.

1139
00:28:33,962 --> 00:28:35,214
[Takayama]

1140
00:28:33,962 --> 00:28:35,214
Nine, ten years old,

1141
00:28:35,255 --> 00:28:36,756
we carried the sashimi dish

1142
00:28:36,798 --> 00:28:39,677
in the special kind

1143
00:28:36,798 --> 00:28:39,677
of container.

1144
00:28:39,718 --> 00:28:41,345
We'd go all the neighbors.

1145
00:28:41,387 --> 00:28:43,138
-Yeah.

1146
00:28:41,387 --> 00:28:43,138
-To deliver.

1147
00:28:43,180 --> 00:28:45,265
[Bourdain] You learned

1148
00:28:43,180 --> 00:28:45,265
how to clean fish very early,

1149
00:28:45,307 --> 00:28:46,933
-how to cut it.

1150
00:28:45,307 --> 00:28:46,933
-[Takayama] Uh-hmm. Ten, elven,

1151
00:28:46,975 --> 00:28:48,768
twelve, that time already

1152
00:28:48,810 --> 00:28:50,437
I started to grill

1153
00:28:48,810 --> 00:28:50,437
the fish.

1154
00:28:50,479 --> 00:28:51,855
♪ ♪

1155
00:28:51,897 --> 00:28:55,025
[Ishi] Back then,

1156
00:28:51,897 --> 00:28:55,025
the children were small,

1157
00:28:55,067 --> 00:28:57,486
and then it was really tough.

1158
00:28:57,528 --> 00:28:59,154
But now all of them bring me

1159
00:28:59,196 --> 00:29:01,240
so many delicious things to eat.

1160
00:29:01,281 --> 00:29:03,783
So I'm very grateful these days.

1161
00:29:03,825 --> 00:29:04,784
[Bourdain]

1162
00:29:03,825 --> 00:29:04,784
In her opinion,

1163
00:29:04,826 --> 00:29:06,537
were you

1164
00:29:04,826 --> 00:29:06,537
a good student?

1165
00:29:07,871 --> 00:29:09,789
-I was, right?

1166
00:29:07,871 --> 00:29:09,789
-[Bourdain] A good one?

1167
00:29:09,831 --> 00:29:12,084
[laughter]

1168
00:29:12,125 --> 00:29:13,711
[Takayama] Was I a naughty kid?

1169
00:29:13,752 --> 00:29:15,254
[Ishi] Yes, troublesome.

1170
00:29:15,295 --> 00:29:17,005
[Bourdain] So, were you

1171
00:29:15,295 --> 00:29:17,005
surprised that he became

1172
00:29:17,047 --> 00:29:18,382
a big success in America?

1173
00:29:18,424 --> 00:29:19,675
[Ishi] Yes, I was.

1174
00:29:19,717 --> 00:29:21,801
Of course, it's because

1175
00:29:19,717 --> 00:29:21,801
Grandpa was strict

1176
00:29:21,843 --> 00:29:23,721
with the children,

1177
00:29:23,762 --> 00:29:24,846
I thinks that's why

1178
00:29:23,762 --> 00:29:24,846
your dad

1179
00:29:24,888 --> 00:29:26,806
worked for a sushi

1180
00:29:24,888 --> 00:29:26,806
restaurant.

1181
00:29:26,848 --> 00:29:28,684
There, he was a very

1182
00:29:28,726 --> 00:29:29,809
organized sushi master.

1183
00:29:29,851 --> 00:29:32,062
I think he tried

1184
00:29:29,851 --> 00:29:32,062
very hard,

1185
00:29:32,104 --> 00:29:33,813
You were not a lazy kid.

1186
00:29:32,104 --> 00:29:33,813
You had and dreams--

1187
00:29:33,855 --> 00:29:35,691
-And you wanted to--

1188
00:29:33,855 --> 00:29:35,691
-That's right.

1189
00:29:35,733 --> 00:29:37,735
I can't sit long,

1190
00:29:35,733 --> 00:29:37,735
you know?

1191
00:29:37,776 --> 00:29:38,818
I got to do something.

1192
00:29:38,860 --> 00:29:41,614
He seems to work

1193
00:29:38,860 --> 00:29:41,614
harder here than at work.

1194
00:29:41,655 --> 00:29:43,823
[Catherine] She's saying

1195
00:29:41,655 --> 00:29:43,823
he probably works more here

1196
00:29:43,865 --> 00:29:45,284
than he does abroad.

1197
00:29:45,325 --> 00:29:47,119
[laughter]

1198
00:29:47,160 --> 00:29:49,121
♪ ♪

1199
00:29:53,875 --> 00:29:57,087
[Bourdain] Oh, man, nice wasabi.

1200
00:29:57,129 --> 00:29:58,838
-[Takayama] See this?

1201
00:29:57,129 --> 00:29:58,838
-[Bourdain] Yeah.

1202
00:29:58,880 --> 00:30:00,840
[Takayama] That's a great

1203
00:29:58,880 --> 00:30:00,840
flavor. So, just scrape first,

1204
00:30:00,882 --> 00:30:03,761
start to scrape,

1205
00:30:00,882 --> 00:30:03,761
then go this way.

1206
00:30:03,802 --> 00:30:05,345
Whoo, ho-ho.

1207
00:30:05,387 --> 00:30:06,680
Yeah, nice.

1208
00:30:06,722 --> 00:30:07,847
Wow, look at that.

1209
00:30:07,889 --> 00:30:09,558
Comfort food is one thing,

1210
00:30:09,600 --> 00:30:10,850
and damn, it's wonderful.

1211
00:30:10,892 --> 00:30:12,227
But Masa being Masa,

1212
00:30:12,269 --> 00:30:13,895
you'll notice

1213
00:30:12,269 --> 00:30:13,895
there's a mountain

1214
00:30:13,937 --> 00:30:15,855
of decidedly

1215
00:30:13,937 --> 00:30:15,855
luxurious sashimi

1216
00:30:15,897 --> 00:30:17,107
brought up

1217
00:30:15,897 --> 00:30:17,107
from Tsukiji Market

1218
00:30:17,149 --> 00:30:18,525
in Tokyo this morning.

1219
00:30:18,567 --> 00:30:20,527
[Takayama] This we do all

1220
00:30:18,567 --> 00:30:20,527
the time, you know?

1221
00:30:20,569 --> 00:30:21,903
Very simple, easy.

1222
00:30:21,945 --> 00:30:23,739
[Bourdain] Oh, yeah,

1223
00:30:21,945 --> 00:30:23,739
that's just a nice big

1224
00:30:23,781 --> 00:30:24,864
pile of incredible,

1225
00:30:24,906 --> 00:30:25,949
beautiful uni

1226
00:30:24,906 --> 00:30:25,949
like that.

1227
00:30:25,991 --> 00:30:27,534
-I do that all the time.

1228
00:30:25,991 --> 00:30:27,534
-[laughter]

1229
00:30:27,576 --> 00:30:29,578
[Bourdain]

1230
00:30:27,576 --> 00:30:29,578
Some sea urchin roe, or uni,

1231
00:30:29,620 --> 00:30:30,954
and some high-test otoro tuna

1232
00:30:30,996 --> 00:30:33,165
that any New York

1233
00:30:30,996 --> 00:30:33,165
sushi enthusiast

1234
00:30:33,206 --> 00:30:36,126
would cheerfully cut their

1235
00:30:33,206 --> 00:30:36,126
best friend's throat for.

1236
00:30:36,168 --> 00:30:38,587
-[Bourdain] Hmm, hmm.

1237
00:30:36,168 --> 00:30:38,587
-[Takayama] Hmm.

1238
00:30:39,921 --> 00:30:41,799
-[Takayama] Good?

1239
00:30:39,921 --> 00:30:41,799
-Fantastic.

1240
00:30:41,840 --> 00:30:43,509
[Ishi] This is better than

1241
00:30:41,840 --> 00:30:43,509
Masa's sushi.

1242
00:30:43,550 --> 00:30:44,968
[laughter]

1243
00:30:45,010 --> 00:30:47,887
[Bourdain] Ooh, bold words.

1244
00:30:47,929 --> 00:30:49,556
[Takayama] Maybe better, huh?

1245
00:30:51,141 --> 00:30:52,892
[Bourdain]

1246
00:30:51,141 --> 00:30:52,892
Typical Japanese meal,

1247
00:30:52,934 --> 00:30:54,102
champagne, Sancerre.

1248
00:30:54,144 --> 00:30:55,895
[Takayama]

1249
00:30:54,144 --> 00:30:55,895
That's why we do it. [laughs]

1250
00:30:55,937 --> 00:30:58,106
[Bourdain] Country cooking

1251
00:30:55,937 --> 00:30:58,106
at its best, right?

1252
00:30:58,148 --> 00:30:59,107
[laughter]

1253
00:30:59,149 --> 00:31:01,151
♪ ♪

1254
00:31:02,110 --> 00:31:05,238
♪ ♪

1255
00:31:38,355 --> 00:31:41,608
[Bourdain]

1256
00:31:38,355 --> 00:31:41,608
High school, rah-rah-rah,

1257
00:31:41,650 --> 00:31:43,943
high school, sis bomba

1258
00:31:43,985 --> 00:31:46,446
as the MC5 so notably sang.

1259
00:31:46,488 --> 00:31:49,616
[yelling]

1260
00:31:57,666 --> 00:31:59,626
[Bourdain] But school

1261
00:31:57,666 --> 00:31:59,626
in Japan is different.

1262
00:31:59,668 --> 00:32:02,128
They didn't give up

1263
00:31:59,668 --> 00:32:02,128
on physical education

1264
00:32:02,170 --> 00:32:03,672
as we seem to have.

1265
00:32:03,714 --> 00:32:06,049
The thousand-year-old

1266
00:32:03,714 --> 00:32:06,049
martial art of kendo,

1267
00:32:06,091 --> 00:32:07,593
or "the way of the sword,"

1268
00:32:07,634 --> 00:32:08,968
is still widely taught.

1269
00:32:09,010 --> 00:32:09,969
[both yell]

1270
00:32:10,011 --> 00:32:11,221
[Bourdain] Boys and girls alike

1271
00:32:11,263 --> 00:32:13,640
compete with bamboo swords--

1272
00:32:13,682 --> 00:32:14,974
sensible stand-ins

1273
00:32:15,016 --> 00:32:16,560
for actual samurai swords,

1274
00:32:16,602 --> 00:32:19,145
but the same thing, man.

1275
00:32:19,187 --> 00:32:21,231
♪ ♪

1276
00:32:21,273 --> 00:32:24,443
[shouting]

1277
00:32:24,484 --> 00:32:25,985
Oh, ho.

1278
00:32:26,027 --> 00:32:27,987
[Bourdain] Kendo is scored

1279
00:32:26,027 --> 00:32:27,987
by strikes against the wrist,

1280
00:32:28,029 --> 00:32:30,490
head, torso, or throat,

1281
00:32:30,532 --> 00:32:31,784
each representing a blow

1282
00:32:31,825 --> 00:32:33,285
that would be bad news

1283
00:32:33,326 --> 00:32:35,829
if handling an actual blade.

1284
00:32:35,871 --> 00:32:37,539
Ha, ha.

1285
00:32:39,750 --> 00:32:41,000
They're fast, huh?

1286
00:32:41,042 --> 00:32:42,502
[Bourdain]

1287
00:32:41,042 --> 00:32:42,502
The concept of kaizen,

1288
00:32:42,544 --> 00:32:44,797
improvement,

1289
00:32:42,544 --> 00:32:44,797
central to the study

1290
00:32:44,838 --> 00:32:46,799
of any martial art,

1291
00:32:46,840 --> 00:32:48,926
it could be said also applies

1292
00:32:48,967 --> 00:32:50,176
to cooking at a high level.

1293
00:32:50,218 --> 00:32:53,430
♪ ♪

1294
00:32:57,058 --> 00:32:58,059
[Bourdain] So, it's no surprise

1295
00:32:58,101 --> 00:33:00,019
that young Masa once suited up

1296
00:33:00,061 --> 00:33:01,104
for the same team

1297
00:33:01,146 --> 00:33:03,649
at the same

1298
00:33:01,146 --> 00:33:03,649
junior high school.

1299
00:33:03,690 --> 00:33:06,985
♪ ♪

1300
00:33:14,326 --> 00:33:16,035
I think he's trying

1301
00:33:14,326 --> 00:33:16,035
to psych the kid,

1302
00:33:16,077 --> 00:33:17,496
but I don't think

1303
00:33:16,077 --> 00:33:17,496
it's gonna work frankly.

1304
00:33:17,537 --> 00:33:19,372
♪ ♪

1305
00:33:21,082 --> 00:33:22,626
Yeah, on the other hand.

1306
00:33:22,668 --> 00:33:25,295
[man]

1307
00:33:22,668 --> 00:33:25,295
Please step in.

1308
00:33:27,547 --> 00:33:28,632
Start.

1309
00:33:28,674 --> 00:33:30,008
[both shouting]

1310
00:33:35,973 --> 00:33:37,891
One point on the face!

1311
00:33:37,933 --> 00:33:38,976
[applause]

1312
00:33:39,017 --> 00:33:40,310
[man] Second hit!

1313
00:33:40,352 --> 00:33:43,522
♪ ♪

1314
00:33:48,109 --> 00:33:50,028
[man] One point for the wrist!

1315
00:33:51,530 --> 00:33:53,198
Game!

1316
00:33:55,325 --> 00:33:57,577
[Bourdain]

1317
00:33:55,325 --> 00:33:57,577
You still got it, man.

1318
00:33:57,619 --> 00:33:58,912
Looking good.

1319
00:33:58,954 --> 00:34:02,749
[Takayama]

1320
00:33:58,954 --> 00:34:02,749
Thanks. Oh.

1321
00:34:02,791 --> 00:34:05,084
Whoo.

1322
00:34:05,126 --> 00:34:07,754
Thank you very much.

1323
00:34:05,126 --> 00:34:07,754
Thank you.

1324
00:34:07,796 --> 00:34:09,589
[all speaks in Japanese]

1325
00:34:09,631 --> 00:34:11,049
Thank you very much.

1326
00:34:13,844 --> 00:34:16,388
Awesome, man. Fast.

1327
00:34:16,429 --> 00:34:18,390
Inspiration.

1328
00:34:18,431 --> 00:34:20,559
[Takayama] When I was 12 years

1329
00:34:18,431 --> 00:34:20,559
old, I started Kendo

1330
00:34:20,600 --> 00:34:22,477
I'm in the lowest rank of Kendo.

1331
00:34:22,519 --> 00:34:23,562
But for three years,

1332
00:34:23,603 --> 00:34:26,899
in this junior high school,

1333
00:34:23,603 --> 00:34:26,899
I practiced.

1334
00:34:26,940 --> 00:34:28,775
I used a bamboo sword...

1335
00:34:28,817 --> 00:34:30,360
for the first time

1336
00:34:28,817 --> 00:34:30,360
in 50 years.

1337
00:34:30,402 --> 00:34:32,111
I really enjoyed it.

1338
00:34:30,402 --> 00:34:32,111
Thank you very much.

1339
00:34:32,153 --> 00:34:34,113
Everyone,

1340
00:34:32,153 --> 00:34:34,113
please study hard.

1341
00:34:34,155 --> 00:34:35,574
Have a wonderful future.

1342
00:34:35,615 --> 00:34:36,742
Thank you.

1343
00:34:36,783 --> 00:34:38,201
[all speaks in Japanese]

1344
00:34:38,243 --> 00:34:40,245
[Takayama speaks in Japanese]

1345
00:34:44,165 --> 00:34:47,502
-Yeah!

1346
00:34:44,165 --> 00:34:47,502
-[all] Yeah!

1347
00:34:47,544 --> 00:34:49,713
♪ ♪

1348
00:34:49,755 --> 00:34:52,507
[Bourdain] Masa Takayama

1349
00:34:49,755 --> 00:34:52,507
left Nasushiobara.

1350
00:34:52,549 --> 00:34:54,384
♪ ♪

1351
00:34:54,426 --> 00:34:56,344
[Bourdain]

1352
00:34:54,426 --> 00:34:56,344
His oldest brother, Kazuo,

1353
00:34:56,386 --> 00:34:57,345
stayed.

1354
00:34:57,387 --> 00:35:00,348
♪ ♪

1355
00:35:00,390 --> 00:35:02,141
[Bourdain] He's been

1356
00:35:00,390 --> 00:35:02,141
the chef proprietor

1357
00:35:02,183 --> 00:35:04,143
of local restaurant Sugimura

1358
00:35:04,185 --> 00:35:07,146
for the last 30 years.

1359
00:35:07,188 --> 00:35:08,523
Kimoyaki, eel liver

1360
00:35:08,565 --> 00:35:10,650
dipped in a sauce of sake,

1361
00:35:08,565 --> 00:35:10,650
soy, and mirin,

1362
00:35:10,692 --> 00:35:13,779
then grilled low and slow

1363
00:35:10,692 --> 00:35:13,779
over charcoal.

1364
00:35:13,820 --> 00:35:15,822
[Bourdain] Say, they could serve

1365
00:35:13,820 --> 00:35:15,822
this at The French Laundry,

1366
00:35:15,864 --> 00:35:17,323
-right?

1367
00:35:15,864 --> 00:35:17,323
-[laughs]

1368
00:35:17,365 --> 00:35:19,158
I think we do.

1369
00:35:19,200 --> 00:35:21,160
[Bourdain] So, back in the

1370
00:35:19,200 --> 00:35:21,160
days of the family catering

1371
00:35:21,202 --> 00:35:22,746
-business...

1372
00:35:21,202 --> 00:35:22,746
-[Catherine] Uh-huh.

1373
00:35:22,788 --> 00:35:24,163
[Bourdain] When he looked

1374
00:35:22,788 --> 00:35:24,163
at his younger brother,

1375
00:35:24,205 --> 00:35:26,583
did he think,

1376
00:35:24,205 --> 00:35:26,583
"This guy's gonna make

1377
00:35:26,625 --> 00:35:27,793
something of himself?"

1378
00:35:27,834 --> 00:35:28,877
Not particularly.

1379
00:35:28,919 --> 00:35:31,004
[Catherine] He's like, "No."

1380
00:35:31,046 --> 00:35:34,091
[Bourdain] 'Cause your dad

1381
00:35:31,046 --> 00:35:34,091
said he was a bad--

1382
00:35:31,046 --> 00:35:34,091
he was not a good student.

1383
00:35:34,132 --> 00:35:35,341
When he started going

1384
00:35:34,132 --> 00:35:35,341
to high school.

1385
00:35:35,383 --> 00:35:37,469
[Catherine] It's when

1386
00:35:35,383 --> 00:35:37,469
he went to high school,

1387
00:35:37,510 --> 00:35:39,471
-[Kazuo] He stopped studying.

1388
00:35:37,510 --> 00:35:39,471
-[Catherine] And then

1389
00:35:37,510 --> 00:35:39,471
he stopped studying.

1390
00:35:39,512 --> 00:35:41,431
[Bourdain] Right. What was

1391
00:35:39,512 --> 00:35:41,431
he doing instead of studying?

1392
00:35:41,473 --> 00:35:42,682
I wonder Mahjong?

1393
00:35:42,724 --> 00:35:44,476
Mahjong. Mahjong is probably...

1394
00:35:44,517 --> 00:35:46,645
[laughter]

1395
00:35:46,686 --> 00:35:50,189
♪ ♪

1396
00:35:55,946 --> 00:35:58,657
[Bourdain] Next, this insanely

1397
00:35:55,946 --> 00:35:58,657
delicious custard of eel

1398
00:35:58,698 --> 00:36:00,492
and egg jacked with bean curd,

1399
00:36:00,533 --> 00:36:02,035
bonito broth, and kelp.

1400
00:36:02,077 --> 00:36:05,204
-[Catherine] Oh, wow.

1401
00:36:02,077 --> 00:36:05,204
-[Bourdain] Wow,

1402
00:36:02,077 --> 00:36:05,204
that is beautiful.

1403
00:36:05,246 --> 00:36:06,832
[Kazuo] This is called

1404
00:36:05,246 --> 00:36:06,832
umishi-tamago,

1405
00:36:06,873 --> 00:36:09,793
Hmm, really good.

1406
00:36:09,835 --> 00:36:11,044
Of everyone in the family,

1407
00:36:11,086 --> 00:36:12,253
why'd your dad

1408
00:36:11,086 --> 00:36:12,253
end up the weirdo?

1409
00:36:12,295 --> 00:36:14,798
[Catherine] So, after

1410
00:36:12,295 --> 00:36:14,798
he graduated high school,

1411
00:36:14,840 --> 00:36:17,009
he didn't have any idea

1412
00:36:14,840 --> 00:36:17,009
what he wanted to do.

1413
00:36:17,050 --> 00:36:18,217
My uncle, at the time,

1414
00:36:18,259 --> 00:36:19,719
he was already in Tokyo.

1415
00:36:19,761 --> 00:36:20,804
And he was like,

1416
00:36:20,846 --> 00:36:22,139
"Look, come out to Tokyo.

1417
00:36:22,180 --> 00:36:23,389
Work at Ginza Sushi-ko."

1418
00:36:23,431 --> 00:36:25,851
And he went to go

1419
00:36:23,431 --> 00:36:25,851
check it out, and he loved it.

1420
00:36:25,892 --> 00:36:28,103
Correct me if I'm wrong.

1421
00:36:25,892 --> 00:36:28,103
That was a tremendous break

1422
00:36:28,145 --> 00:36:30,022
for an aimless young man

1423
00:36:30,063 --> 00:36:31,230
from the provinces.

1424
00:36:31,272 --> 00:36:33,232
You know, my father,

1425
00:36:31,272 --> 00:36:33,232
being the second son,

1426
00:36:33,274 --> 00:36:36,444
he kind of had free range

1427
00:36:33,274 --> 00:36:36,444
to do whatever he wanted.

1428
00:36:36,486 --> 00:36:39,531
Uncle, did you always know that

1429
00:36:36,486 --> 00:36:39,531
you wanted to be a chef,

1430
00:36:39,572 --> 00:36:42,117
since you were a little?

1431
00:36:42,159 --> 00:36:44,243
[Kazuo] No, I didn't.

1432
00:36:44,285 --> 00:36:46,245
In Japan, the oldest son

1433
00:36:44,285 --> 00:36:46,245
has to be

1434
00:36:46,287 --> 00:36:49,624
the head of the household.

1435
00:36:49,666 --> 00:36:52,251
[Catherine] So, traditionally,

1436
00:36:49,666 --> 00:36:52,251
it's the oldest son

1437
00:36:52,293 --> 00:36:54,838
stays to take care

1438
00:36:52,293 --> 00:36:54,838
of the parents.

1439
00:36:54,880 --> 00:36:57,298
-If he could live

1440
00:36:54,880 --> 00:36:57,298
his life over again.

1441
00:36:54,880 --> 00:36:57,298
-Yeah.

1442
00:36:57,340 --> 00:36:59,258
I wanted to be

1443
00:36:57,340 --> 00:36:59,258
a designer originally.

1444
00:37:00,301 --> 00:37:02,261
-A designer of--

1445
00:37:00,301 --> 00:37:02,261
-Fashion designer.

1446
00:37:02,303 --> 00:37:05,057
-[Bourdain] Fashion designer.

1447
00:37:02,303 --> 00:37:05,057
-[Catherine] Fashion. Really?

1448
00:37:05,098 --> 00:37:06,641
[Kazuo] I figured

1449
00:37:05,098 --> 00:37:06,641
that in order to play

1450
00:37:06,683 --> 00:37:08,434
with a lot of colors.

1451
00:37:08,476 --> 00:37:10,395
Japanese cuisine

1452
00:37:08,476 --> 00:37:10,395
is perfect because

1453
00:37:12,313 --> 00:37:14,315
Japanese cooking

1454
00:37:12,313 --> 00:37:14,315
would let me present

1455
00:37:14,357 --> 00:37:16,317
different colors

1456
00:37:14,357 --> 00:37:16,317
inside each dish.

1457
00:37:20,989 --> 00:37:22,490
[Bourdain]

1458
00:37:20,989 --> 00:37:22,490
Then, hitsumabushi,

1459
00:37:22,532 --> 00:37:26,661
eel steamed, dressed,

1460
00:37:22,532 --> 00:37:26,661
and grilled over rice.

1461
00:37:26,703 --> 00:37:28,663
-[Bourdain] Oh, look at this.

1462
00:37:26,703 --> 00:37:28,663
-[Catherine]Oh, wow.

1463
00:37:28,705 --> 00:37:30,540
There are a lot

1464
00:37:28,705 --> 00:37:30,540
of components here.

1465
00:37:30,582 --> 00:37:33,752
♪ ♪

1466
00:37:36,004 --> 00:37:37,005
Amazing.

1467
00:37:37,047 --> 00:37:38,131
[Bourdain] Wow, that's good.

1468
00:37:38,173 --> 00:37:39,966
-[speaks Japanese]

1469
00:37:38,173 --> 00:37:39,966
-Thank you.

1470
00:37:40,008 --> 00:37:41,300
[Catherine] I've never had unagi

1471
00:37:41,342 --> 00:37:43,095
other than my uncle's unagi.

1472
00:37:43,136 --> 00:37:44,387
[Bourdain] Uh-hmm. Really?

1473
00:37:44,429 --> 00:37:45,680
Yeah. Oh.

1474
00:37:45,722 --> 00:37:49,101
-[Bourdain] Good sake.

1475
00:37:45,722 --> 00:37:49,101
Good food.

1476
00:37:45,722 --> 00:37:49,101
-Yeah.

1477
00:37:49,142 --> 00:37:50,727
-This is delicious, uncle.

1478
00:37:49,142 --> 00:37:50,727
-Thank you very much.

1479
00:37:50,769 --> 00:37:51,978
Thank you very much.

1480
00:37:52,020 --> 00:37:53,438
♪ ♪

1481
00:37:57,150 --> 00:38:00,278
♪ ♪

1482
00:38:06,993 --> 00:38:09,246
[Bourdain] The Japanese

1483
00:38:06,993 --> 00:38:09,246
often bear a heavy burden

1484
00:38:09,287 --> 00:38:11,539
of responsibilities.

1485
00:38:11,581 --> 00:38:14,500
Societal expectations,

1486
00:38:14,542 --> 00:38:16,753
family obligations,

1487
00:38:16,795 --> 00:38:17,921
tradition,

1488
00:38:17,963 --> 00:38:19,756
work.

1489
00:38:19,798 --> 00:38:21,049
But when they relax,

1490
00:38:21,091 --> 00:38:23,260
they really do it well.

1491
00:38:23,301 --> 00:38:26,345
They are better at it

1492
00:38:23,301 --> 00:38:26,345
than anybody.

1493
00:38:26,387 --> 00:38:29,348
[Takayama] Whoa-ho! Whoo.

1494
00:38:29,390 --> 00:38:31,643
[Bourdain]

1495
00:38:29,390 --> 00:38:31,643
It's good, man.

1496
00:38:31,684 --> 00:38:33,352
Soak in an outdoor onsen,

1497
00:38:33,394 --> 00:38:34,813
natural sulfur baths

1498
00:38:34,854 --> 00:38:37,232
in the mountains, for instance.

1499
00:38:39,484 --> 00:38:41,278
[Takayama]

1500
00:38:39,484 --> 00:38:41,278
Oh, man, so good, huh?

1501
00:38:41,319 --> 00:38:43,947
[Bourdain] Yeah.

1502
00:38:41,319 --> 00:38:43,947
I feel healthier already.

1503
00:38:43,989 --> 00:38:46,616
[Takayama]

1504
00:38:43,989 --> 00:38:46,616
Yeah. Where's the beer?

1505
00:38:46,658 --> 00:38:48,660
So to speak.

1506
00:38:46,658 --> 00:38:48,660
Thank you.

1507
00:38:51,412 --> 00:38:52,998
-It is Suntory time, my friend.

1508
00:38:51,412 --> 00:38:52,998
-Cheers. Kanpai.

1509
00:38:53,039 --> 00:38:54,624
-Suntory time.

1510
00:38:53,039 --> 00:38:54,624
-It's time to relax.

1511
00:38:54,666 --> 00:38:56,126
[laughs]

1512
00:38:57,877 --> 00:39:01,339
♪ ♪

1513
00:39:12,684 --> 00:39:14,393
-[Takayama] Beautiful color,

1514
00:39:12,684 --> 00:39:14,393
huh?

1515
00:39:12,684 --> 00:39:14,393
-[Bourdain] Looking good.

1516
00:39:14,435 --> 00:39:16,271
-[Takayama] Right?

1517
00:39:14,435 --> 00:39:16,271
[-Bourdain] Get together

1518
00:39:16,313 --> 00:39:18,273
with some friends

1519
00:39:16,313 --> 00:39:18,273
and cook off some al fresco

1520
00:39:18,315 --> 00:39:21,234
mountain-style

1521
00:39:18,315 --> 00:39:21,234
sukiyaki, bitches.

1522
00:39:21,276 --> 00:39:22,401
Maybe a little tempura

1523
00:39:21,276 --> 00:39:22,401
made from

1524
00:39:22,443 --> 00:39:25,404
foraged wild

1525
00:39:22,443 --> 00:39:25,404
asparagus and fukinoto.

1526
00:39:25,446 --> 00:39:28,908
[Takayama]

1527
00:39:25,446 --> 00:39:28,908
That's the way I like.

1528
00:39:28,950 --> 00:39:31,286
Hmm.

1529
00:39:31,328 --> 00:39:32,495
-Yeah.

1530
00:39:31,328 --> 00:39:32,495
-[Takayama] Beautiful.

1531
00:39:32,537 --> 00:39:34,289
[Bourdain]

1532
00:39:32,537 --> 00:39:34,289
And when it's sukiyaki time

1533
00:39:34,331 --> 00:39:35,874
after a whole lot of,

1534
00:39:34,331 --> 00:39:35,874
shall we say,

1535
00:39:35,915 --> 00:39:37,876
home-brewed sake...

1536
00:39:37,917 --> 00:39:39,418
Kanpai, Kanpai.

1537
00:39:39,460 --> 00:39:40,712
[Bourdain]

1538
00:39:39,460 --> 00:39:40,712
You just kick back,

1539
00:39:40,753 --> 00:39:44,049
stir in the maitakes

1540
00:39:40,753 --> 00:39:44,049
and the shitakes,

1541
00:39:44,090 --> 00:39:45,466
then some Tochigi beef,

1542
00:39:45,508 --> 00:39:47,426
and enjoy the day.

1543
00:39:45,508 --> 00:39:47,426
[Takayama] This is what I like.

1544
00:39:47,468 --> 00:39:48,928
-[Bourdain] Oh, yeah.

1545
00:39:47,468 --> 00:39:48,928
-[Takayama] Beautiful, right?

1546
00:39:48,970 --> 00:39:50,889
-This is gonna be good.

1547
00:39:48,970 --> 00:39:50,889
-[Takayama] Yeah, more, more,

1548
00:39:50,930 --> 00:39:52,473
more, more, more, more,

1549
00:39:50,930 --> 00:39:52,473
more, more, more, more,

1550
00:39:52,515 --> 00:39:54,017
more, more,

1551
00:39:52,515 --> 00:39:54,017
more, more, more.

1552
00:39:54,059 --> 00:39:56,435
Yeah, good,

1553
00:39:54,059 --> 00:39:56,435
good, good.

1554
00:39:56,477 --> 00:39:58,437
-[Bourdain] Nice eggs.

1555
00:39:56,477 --> 00:39:58,437
-[Takayama] Beautiful eggs.

1556
00:39:58,479 --> 00:40:00,481
♪ ♪

1557
00:40:02,108 --> 00:40:03,276
Hmm.

1558
00:40:03,318 --> 00:40:05,111
[Takayama] So good.

1559
00:40:05,153 --> 00:40:07,446
See, that's what

1560
00:40:05,153 --> 00:40:07,446
I like.

1561
00:40:07,488 --> 00:40:09,282
Outside, especially.

1562
00:40:07,488 --> 00:40:09,282
Outside it tastes better,

1563
00:40:09,324 --> 00:40:10,700
-much better than--

1564
00:40:09,324 --> 00:40:10,700
-[Bourdain] Everything

1565
00:40:10,742 --> 00:40:13,328
-tastes better outside.

1566
00:40:10,742 --> 00:40:13,328
-[Takayama] Exactly, exactly.

1567
00:40:14,913 --> 00:40:16,497
[Bourdain] So, how long

1568
00:40:14,913 --> 00:40:16,497
have you known these guys?

1569
00:40:16,539 --> 00:40:18,457
[Takayama] Oh, since--

1570
00:40:16,539 --> 00:40:18,457
since high school. Which is--

1571
00:40:18,499 --> 00:40:19,959
-[Bourdain] High school?

1572
00:40:18,499 --> 00:40:19,959
-[Takayama] High school, yeah,

1573
00:40:20,001 --> 00:40:22,962
-Which is, what, 44 years?

1574
00:40:20,001 --> 00:40:22,962
-[Bourdain] Forty four years?

1575
00:40:23,004 --> 00:40:25,090
Yeah, it's a long time,

1576
00:40:23,004 --> 00:40:25,090
huh? [laughs]

1577
00:40:25,131 --> 00:40:26,632
How does he remember you

1578
00:40:25,131 --> 00:40:26,632
in high school?

1579
00:40:26,674 --> 00:40:27,926
Who was the best student,

1580
00:40:27,967 --> 00:40:29,677
who was the worst

1581
00:40:27,967 --> 00:40:29,677
student here?

1582
00:40:29,719 --> 00:40:31,679
-This is the best student.

1583
00:40:29,719 --> 00:40:31,679
-[Bourdain] Best student?

1584
00:40:31,721 --> 00:40:34,391
These guys--the three guys,

1585
00:40:31,721 --> 00:40:34,391
the three of us is the worst.

1586
00:40:34,432 --> 00:40:36,393
[Bourdain] The three of you

1587
00:40:34,432 --> 00:40:36,393
were the bad students?

1588
00:40:36,434 --> 00:40:38,270
[Takayama] Ah, very good.

1589
00:40:38,311 --> 00:40:39,896
So, you do this

1590
00:40:38,311 --> 00:40:39,896
when you were kids?

1591
00:40:39,938 --> 00:40:41,106
Build a fire,

1592
00:40:39,938 --> 00:40:41,106
cook something?

1593
00:40:41,147 --> 00:40:42,690
Yeah, always.

1594
00:40:41,147 --> 00:40:42,690
Always we did that.

1595
00:40:42,732 --> 00:40:45,068
[Bourdain] Drink sake?

1596
00:40:42,732 --> 00:40:45,068
[Takayama] Smoke cigarette

1597
00:40:42,732 --> 00:40:45,068
outside.

1598
00:40:45,110 --> 00:40:46,361
[Bourdain] Back then,

1599
00:40:45,110 --> 00:40:46,361
did everybody know

1600
00:40:46,403 --> 00:40:47,486
that you were not

1601
00:40:46,403 --> 00:40:47,486
gonna stay?

1602
00:40:47,528 --> 00:40:49,072
Like, when you were

1603
00:40:47,528 --> 00:40:49,072
in high school,

1604
00:40:49,114 --> 00:40:50,489
did you talk about,

1605
00:40:50,531 --> 00:40:52,491
"When I get old enough,

1606
00:40:50,531 --> 00:40:52,491
I'm going to America.

1607
00:40:52,533 --> 00:40:55,161
-I'm not--I'm not staying here."

1608
00:40:52,533 --> 00:40:55,161
-Yeah, we did that.

1609
00:40:55,203 --> 00:40:56,537
I told you that I might

1610
00:40:55,203 --> 00:40:56,537
go to America

1611
00:40:56,579 --> 00:41:00,125
when we were in

1612
00:40:56,579 --> 00:41:00,125
high school, eh?

1613
00:41:00,166 --> 00:41:01,709
Yeah, yeah, yeah,

1614
00:41:00,166 --> 00:41:01,709
I told them.

1615
00:41:01,751 --> 00:41:03,669
[Bourdain] Now, you weren't

1616
00:41:01,751 --> 00:41:03,669
dressed up like John Wayne

1617
00:41:03,711 --> 00:41:04,879
or anything?

1618
00:41:04,921 --> 00:41:06,339
When you went to school?

1619
00:41:04,921 --> 00:41:06,339
No cowboy boots?

1620
00:41:06,381 --> 00:41:07,673
No, no, no, no, no.

1621
00:41:07,715 --> 00:41:11,177
♪ ♪

1622
00:41:17,934 --> 00:41:20,353
[Bourdain] They say you can

1623
00:41:17,934 --> 00:41:20,353
take the boy out of the country

1624
00:41:20,395 --> 00:41:23,189
but you can't take

1625
00:41:20,395 --> 00:41:23,189
the country out of the boy.

1626
00:41:25,442 --> 00:41:26,901
I don't know if that's true.

1627
00:41:26,943 --> 00:41:28,403
We all come from some place,

1628
00:41:28,445 --> 00:41:30,571
that's for sure.

1629
00:41:30,613 --> 00:41:32,157
But New York City,

1630
00:41:32,198 --> 00:41:33,741
in Masa Takayama's case,

1631
00:41:33,783 --> 00:41:36,702
seems far, far away

1632
00:41:33,783 --> 00:41:36,702
from the little town

1633
00:41:36,744 --> 00:41:37,703
he grew up in.

1634
00:41:37,745 --> 00:41:41,207
♪ ♪